Overview of Skin Whitening Cosmetic Regulations Across ASEAN

I. Introduction

In many ASEAN countries, there is a prevailing preference for fair and radiant skin, which is further amplified by the influence of Western and Korean media as well as celebrities. Consequently, the demand for skin whitening cosmetics has surged across ASEAN, which aim to lighten the skin tone and achieve a more even complexion by reducing melanin concentration. As per a research report cited by Bloomberg, the global skin whitening market reached an estimated $8 billion in 2020, with the Asia-Pacific region contributing to over half of the total revenue. ¹

Given the substantial market presence and consumer’s demand for skin whitening cosmetics in ASEAN, it is crucial to examine the regulatory landscape surrounding these products in the region. While preferences for fair skin persist, so do concerns related to product safety, efficacy, and potential health risks. The regulatory frameworks established by ASEAN countries play a pivotal role in ensuring the quality and safety of skin whitening cosmetics. In the subsequent sections, ChemLinked delves into the specific regulations governing these products across ASEAN nations.

II. ASEAN Regulatory Requirements for Skin Whitening Cosmetics

1. Overview

Although skin whitening cosmetics are popular among the ASEAN region, they may pose potential health risks if they contain harmful ingredients such as mercury, hydroquinone, or steroids.

The ASEAN member states have harmonized their cosmetic regulations under the ASEAN Harmonized Cosmetic Regulatory Scheme, specially the ASEAN Cosmetic Directive (ACD).

The ACD implements a notification system for cosmetic products, which means that a cosmetic product can be marketed in any ASEAN country after notifying the local authority. The ACD also provides technical documents that specify the definition, categories, ingredient lists, labelling requirements, claims guidelines, good manufacturing practices, safety assessment, adverse event reporting, product information file, and contaminant limits for cosmetic products.

For more details about general regulations on cosmetics, please refer to ChemLinked’s article:

ASEAN Cosmetic Regulation | ChemLinked

Skin whitening cosmetics must adhere to common technical requirements under the ACD, encompassing product notification; the use of banned, restricted, and permitted ingredients; labeling; product claims; and good manufacturing practices. The following part of this article focuses on ASEAN’s notification, ingredient use, and claim requirements applicable to skin whitening cosmetics. Additionally, this article provides information on country-specific requirements within ASEAN member states.

2. Definition of Skin Whitening Cosmetics in ASEAN