China Introduces the First Standard for Micro-Ecological Cosmetics

Micro-ecological cosmetics, which typically include microbial-derived ingredients like probiotics, prebiotics, and postbiotics, offer benefits in restoring and maintaining the balance of the skin's microbiome, leading to the improvement of the overall skin condition.

Background

Driven by the rising demand for functional skincare and increased consumer focus on skin health, the segment of micro-ecological skincare has witnessed rapid growth in recent years. According to data from the Beauty Industry Research Institute, the market size of micro-ecological skincare products in China is projected to surge from 4.1 billion yuan in 2019 to an estimated 10.54 billion yuan in 2025, with a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 26% and a market penetration rate of 1.5%.¹ Recognizing the potential of this emerging market, both Chinese domestic and international brands have entered the fray, including a large number of renowned global brands such as L'Oreal, SK-II, Lancome, as well as some Chinese brands like Dr. Alva, OSM, and CHIOTURE.

However, although Chinese consumers are increasingly aware of the importance of maintaining a balanced skin microecology for skin health, the micro-ecological skincare sector still faces uncertainties. Unlike other skincare concepts with well-established research systems and efficacy evaluation methods, there is a lack of clear and unified standards for defining micro-ecological cosmetics, as well as a standardized method for evaluating the skin microbiome. This situation has hindered the industry's development to some extent, with some brands merely using micro-ecological skincare claims as marketing gimmicks without embodying the concept in its formula.

Introduction of Two New Standards for Micro-Ecological Cosmetics

Between March and April 2023, the China Household Chemicals Industry Association² and the China Anti-Aging Promoting Association³ took significant steps in regulating micro-ecological cosmetics by introducing two group standards.

It is worth noting that group standards serve as valuable supplements in situations where there are no established national, industry, or local standards for a specific product or industry. Developed by professional associations and/or bodies, these standards are intended for voluntary adoption by the society.

Highlights of T/CHCIA 010—2023

T/CHCIA 010—2023 standard, serving as China's pioneering standard for micro-ecological cosmetic evaluation, provides a comprehensive framework for evaluating the effects of cosmetics on skin microbiota or microbiome through human body testing. Key features of this standard are as follows:

• Offering precise definitions of terms and claims associated with skin microecology, including skin microbiome, micro-ecological cosmetics, alpha-diversity, beta-diversity, community diversity, community richness, and relative abundance of species.

  The following is a distinction between the claims of skin microbiome, skin microecology, and micro-ecological cosmetics. 

• Emphasizing adherence to ethical principles in human skin microbiome testing. Before conducting the human efficacy test, the tested product must undergo the necessary microbiological test, physical and chemical test, as well as cosmetic safety assessment in accordance with the Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics and the Technical Guidelines for Cosmetic Safety Assessment to ensure product safety.

• Adopting amplicon sequencing method to evaluate the skin flora before and after using the product.

  In the field of microbiome research, the two prominent sequencing methods are high-throughput sequencing (amplicon sequencing) and metagenome sequencing. Metagenome sequencing involves untargeted (shotgun) sequencing of the genomes of the entire microbial communities in a specific environment. This method provides information of microbial diversity, species composition, and functional genes at the "species" level. However, due to its high cost, it may not be practical for large-scale applications within the industry.

  On the other hand, amplicon sequencing, such as 16s ribosomal RNA (rRNA) sequencing for bacterial identification as well as 18S rRNA and Internal Transcribed Spacer (ITS) for fungal identification, is a targeted approach that allows for the identification of microbial communities at the "genus" level, with some cases even reaching the "species" level. In contrast to metagenome sequencing, the amplicon sequencing method is cost-effective, with shorter sequencing cycles and low sample quality requirements, making it applicable in a wider range of scenarios.⁴

Highlights of T/ZGKSL 002-2023

• The standard specifies the basic theoretical basis of microecology and skin problems, the definition of micro-ecological skincare and cosmetics, the basic requirements for micro-ecological-related ingredients, the detection method for regulating microecological flora, etc. The standard is applicable to the efficacy evaluation of skin microecology-modulating cosmetics.

• The standard incorporates amplicon sequencing (including 16s rRNA amplicon sequencing and ITS amplicon sequencing) and metagenome sequencing technology. These methods enable the comparison of species composition of microbial communities, the evolutionary relationship between species, and the diversity of communities, as well as the in-depth study on genes and functional aspects.

Implications for the Industry

The introduction of these two standards holds significant implications for the industry. Although not mandatory, their establishment brings much-needed clarity and consistency to the evaluation of micro-ecological cosmetics. These standards also provide essential regulatory references and theoretical support for researchers in the development and efficacy evaluation of micro-ecological cosmetics, thereby effectively fills the void in the guiding principles within the Chinese micro-ecological cosmetics industry.