[Updated] China Approves 4 New Cosmetic Ingredients

China is speeding up the approval of new cosmetic ingredients under the CSAR. Four new ingredients, Ethyl Lauroyl Arginate HCL, Methoxy Peg-23 Methacrylate/Glyceryl Diisostearate Methacrylate Copolymer, Calcium Phosphoryl Oligosaccharides and Steareth-200, have been approved as existing cosmetic ingredients.

Recent Updates

On December 28, 2020, the NMPA officially approved Methacrylate/Glyceryl Diisostearate Methacrylate Copolymer, Calcium Phosphoryl Oligosaccharides and Steareth-200 as cosmetic ingredients, approved Ethyl Lauroyl Arginate HCL as a cosmetic preservative and included it in the List of Permitted Cosmetic Preservatives of chapter 3 of the Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics 2015^[2].

China to Approve 4 New Cosmetic Ingredients

On December 2, 2020, China National Medical Products Administration (NMPA) opened a public consultation on the approval of Ethyl Lauroyl Arginate HCL, Methoxy Peg-23 Methacrylate/Glyceryl Diisostearate Methacrylate Copolymer, Calcium Phosphoryl Oligosaccharides and Steareth-200 as cosmetic ingredients. Stakeholders with any comments can send back to the NMPA by email at [email protected] before December 10, 2020.

The basic information about the 4 new cosmetic ingredients are as follows:

INCI Name	ETHYL LAUROYL ARGINATE HCL	METHOXY PEG-23 METHACRYLATE/GLYCERYL DIISOSTEARATE METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER	CALCIUM PHOSPHORYL OLIGOSACCHARIDES	Steareth-200
Chinese Name	月桂酰精氨酸乙酯 HCl	甲氧基 PEG-23 甲基丙烯酸酯 / 甘油二异硬脂酸酯甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物	磷酰基寡糖钙	硬脂醇聚醚-200
CAS No.	60372-77-2	/	1124316-47-7	9005-00-9
Trade Name	LAE-P (The abbreviation of pure substance) LAE Lauric arginate Ethyl Lauroyl arginate Mirenat-N Aminat Lauramide arginine ethyl ester LAE TECNICO DESHIDRATADO	ISPolymer	POs-Ca	Brij S200
Source	Chemical Synthesis	High-molecular Polymer	Potato Starch	High-molecular Polymer
Intended Use	Cosmetic Preservative	Skin Conditioning Agents and Humectant	Skin Conditioning Agents	Emulsifier and Solubilizer
Application Scope	Apply to all kinds of cosmetics except lip products, oral hygiene products and spray products	① Rinse-off skincare products: cleaning products, massage products. ② Leave-on skincare products: toner, lotion, cream, essence, facial mask, etc. ③ Makeup cosmetics: foundation, various base creams	Apply to all kinds of cosmetics used on face, scalp and whole body, except eye cosmetics	Hair cosmetics
Limit	0.4%	2%	5%	1% (When used with oxidized milk ("氧化乳"in mandarin Chinese) in oxidative hair dye, 1.0% shall be the maximum concentration after mixing)

ChemLinked Comments

The current registration process of new cosmetic ingredients in China is tedious as the compliance requirements are quite strict. From 2004 to 2014, only 10 new ingredients have been given the green light for use in cosmetics by the authority, and none since then. This not only hinders industry innovation but also fails to keep pace with consumer demands and global practices.

Approved New Cosmetic Ingredients (Since 2004)
No.	Ingredients	Approved Year
1	Alkyl (C12-C22) trimethyl ammonium, bromide and chloride	Jun 2004 (the former MoH)
2	Potassium Methoxysalicylate	Apr 2007 (the former MoH)
3	Methylisothiazolinone	May 2007 (the former MoH)
4	Carnitine Tartrate	Jun 2008 (the former MoH)
5	Lathyrus Odoratus Flower Extract	Aug 2008 (the former MoH)
6	Fructooligosaccharides	Aug 2008 (the former MoH)
7	Dimethoxytolyl Propylresorcinol	Mar 2012 (the former CFDA)
8	Polymethacryloyl Lysine	Mar 2012 (the former CFDA)
9	Phenylethyl Resorcinol	Dec 2012 (the former CFDA)
10	Elaeagnus Mollis Diel Oil	Oct 2014 (the former CFDA)

However, the situation is about to change with the introduction of the Cosmetic Supervision and Administration Regulation (CSAR). As per the new regulation, management of cosmetic ingredients will be stratified based on their inherent risk level. Namely, high-risk ingredients such as preservatives, sunscreens, colorants, hair dyes and whitening agents will require registration with the NMPA and be subject to stringent supervision. In contrast, low-risk ingredients are available for use only after quick notifications.

China’s intention to approve the above four new ingredients after 6 years of stagnation is an active signal that the regulatory stance on new cosmetic ingredients is being softened and the classified management of such ingredients is being put in place. ChemLinked expects that more advanced ingredients can be approved and used legally in the Chinese market next year, and the industry will enter a new era of rapid development.