Lessons in Cosmetic Innovation from China’s International Beauty Expo (CIBE)

The rise of “skintellectuals” (consumers who focus on the ingredients of cosmetic products) as an important consumer demographic in the cosmetic sector, has prompted industry to place greater emphasis on the development of new and innovative ingredients. It was also a hot topic in China International Beauty Expo (CIBE) which just was held in Guangzhou on 6^th Sept.

At the beginning of the Ingredients Forum in CIBE, an expert from Ingredi Company showed some data from KuRunData and Mintel: the most important contributor to purchasing preference amongst consumers are active ingredients with benefits (61%).

Professor Guo from Guangdong University of Technology outlined six new categories of ingredients which are worth attention:

1. Genetically engineered bacteria fermentation metabolite, such as lactobacillus fermentation metabolite.

2. Active proteins (peptides), such as EGF (Note: EGF has been fully forbidden to be used in cosmetics in China now.)

3. High purity plant extract

4. Green surfactant, such as alkyl glycoside

5. Active ingredients derived from the sea e.g. mussel protein 

6. Chinese herbs

Among these new ingredients, plant ingredients are gaining more traction amongst consumers because of the rising influence of clean label cosmetics including “green”, “organic” ,“natural” ,“vegan” and “sustainable”. According to Mintel Global New Products Database (GNPD), the most popular new plant ingredients TOP5 from 2016 to 2019 are Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Green Tea Extract, Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Chamomile essence and Rosemary Extract, but the following 5 new plant ingredients have the biggest growth rate: Coconut Water, African Cardamom Seed Extract, Kelp extract, Rice Callus Extract and Pavlova Extract.

China has a series of pretty strict rules to regulate ingredients used in cosmetic products and it is difficult to register new ingredients in China. Only ingredients listed in Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (IECIC2015) can be used in cosmetics. The good news is that articles within Regulation concerning Supervision and Administration over Cosmetics (Draft for Second Public Consultation), which is highly likely to enter into force this year, suggest that low-risk new ingredients (ingredients except antiseptic, sunscreen, coloring, dyeing, whitening ingredients and other high-risk new ingredients) will only require filing in the future.