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China Consults on 3 Cosmetic Testing Standards

On the basis of 2015 Cosmetic Safety and Technical Standards, 3 testing standards were drafted to further improve cosmetic technical regulations and improve product safety.

On June 3, China National Institutes for Food and Drug Control (NIFDC) opened public consultation on 3 cosmetic testing methods. Stakeholders with any suggestions or comments can fill out the feedback form and send back to NIFDC via email at hzpbwh@nifdc.org.cn before June 20, 2019.

(Feedback form of NIFDC)

Specifics of the three testing methods are as follows:

1. Determination of Preservatives in Cosmetics (Draft)

In recent years, it is frequently found in routine supervision that the detected components of preservatives in cosmetics do not conform to the labeled ingredients. The existing 11 testing standards in Cosmetic Safety and Technical Standards 2015 [1] can detect only a narrow range of preservatives.

Thus, a new standard was developed based on research conducted on 51 permitted preservatives in Cosmetic Safety and Technical Standards to extend the test range of preservatives in cosmetics with different matrix.

According to the standard, two methods will be applied to the determination of commonly-used preservatives:

  • The first method—high performance liquid chromatography applies to the determination of methylisothiazolinone and other 22 components, salicylic acid and other 17 components, zinc pyrithione and other 7 components, polyaminopropyl biguanide, hexetidine and phenyl mercuric borate in water-based, cream, emulsion, gel, oil-based and powder cosmetics;

  • The second method—gas chromatography applies to the determination of formic acid and other 30 components in water-based, cream, emulsion, gel, oil-based and powder cosmetics.

2. Determination of Fluorescent Whitening Agent in Cosmetics (Draft) 

Fluorescent whitening agents (FWA) are fluorescent dyes prohibited for use in cosmetics. There is no oversight and no relevant testing standard on the illegal addition of the ingredient in cosmetics in China at present.

The new standard is designed to provide accurate and effective detection methods for the determination of 5 fluorescent whitening agents in masks, make-up water, body lotions and skin cream products, and provide strong technical support for the regulation of cosmetics containing FWA.

The 5 FWA are:

FWA No.CAS No.English Name
FWA 35127344-41-8Disodium 4,4'-bis(2-sulfostyryl)biphenyl
FWA 14091-44-17-Diethylamino-4-methylcoumarin
FWA 8512224-06-5Disodium 4,4'-bis[(4-anilino-6-hydroxyethylamino-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl)amino]stilbene-2,2'-disulphonate
FWA 3675089-22-51,4-Bis(1,3-benzoxazol-2-yl)naphthalene
FWA 184CAS:7128-64-52,5-Bis(5-tert-butyl-2-benzoxazolyl)thiophene

3. Determination of α-Arbutin, β-Arbutin, Hydroquinone and Phenol in Cosmetics (Draft)

The α-arbutin and β-arbutin are a pair of epimerides and common whitening agents. Currently, the only testing standard SN/T 1475-2004 Determination of Arbutin in Cosmetics [2] fails to distinguish between α-arbutin and β-arbutin. In addition, the detection sensitivity of hydroquinone, a prohibited ingredient that will be produced by α-Arbutin or β-Arbutin under certain conditions (such as strong acid, strong alkali, high temperature), in the Cosmetic Safety and Technical Standards 2015 can’t meet the current testing requirements.

For these reasons, the draft standard that applies to the qualitative and quantitative determination of α-arbutin, β-arbutin, hydroquinone and phenol in cosmetics with different matrix was newly designed to improve the performance of testing method.

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