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[Updated] China Cosmetic and New Cosmetic Ingredient Notification: The Current Situation

China implemented a notification system for general cosmetics and low-risk new cosmetic ingredients. ChemLinked summarized the current situation of cosmetic and new cosmetic ingredient notification.

Editor’s Note: This article was originally published on Sep. 8, 2021, and was updated on Nov. 18, 2022, as per the latest developments.

Starting from May 1, 2021, China has implemented a notification system for general cosmetics and low-risk new cosmetic ingredients. Under the new system, as long as companies completed the submission of dossiers online, their cosmetics/new cosmetic ingredients are considered as “notified” and then can be manufactured or imported. There is no longer a pre-market review on notification dossiers, instead, the basic notification information will be made public within five working days after the submission.

How many new cosmetic ingredients and cosmetic products have been notified during the past months? What kind of ingredient or product information has been disclosed to the public? ChemLinked summarizes and shares the details as follows:

1. New Cosmetic Ingredients

According to the NMPA's website, 45 new cosmetic ingredients have been publicized so far, 20 are from Chinese companies and 25 are from overseas companies. It is a huge step forward for China as only 8 new cosmetic ingredients were approved from 2009 to April 2021. It can be estimated that the industry will see a great increase in the number of notified new cosmetic ingredients.

The website discloses the following information of the 45 new cosmetic ingredients to the public:

  • The standard Chinese name of the ingredient

  • Notification number

  • Name of the notifier (Chinese & English)

  • Address of the notifier

  • Region/country of the notifier

  • Name of the responsible person in China

  • Address of the responsible person in China

  • Status, e.g., in the monitoring period

  • Inspection status after notification

  • Notification Date

  • Technical requirements of the ingredient, e.g., INCI name, CAS number, ingredient’s origin, ingredient’s traits, physicochemical properties, the maximum concentration, applicable scope, etc.

  • Notes

The noteworthy information of the 45 ingredients is shown in the table below:

No.

INCI Name

CAS No.

Purpose of Use

Applicable Scope

The Maximum Concentration

Notified Date

Notified Company

1

Acetylneuraminic Acid

131-48-6

Moisturizer

Whole-body skin

≤2%

2021/6/28

Wuhan Zhongke Optics Valley Green Biotechnology Co.,Ltd.

2

Lauroyl Alanine

52558-74-4

Cleansing agent

All kinds of cosmetics

≤20%

2021/6/28

Suzhou Weimei Biotechnology Co., Ltd.

3

β-Alanyl Hydroxyprolyldiaminobutyroyl Benzylamide

/

Skin protectant

1. Rinse-off products: cleansing products and massage products

2. Leave-on products: toner, lotion, mask, etc.

3. Make-up: foundation

0.00001%-1.0%

2021/8/6

Shenzhen Winkey Pharmaceutical R&D Co., Ltd.

4

Tissue Culture of Saussurea Involucrata

/

Antioxidants

All kinds of cosmetics

≤4%

2021/8/13

Dalian Practical Biotechnology Co., Ltd.

5Tetrafluoropropene29118-24-9
Propellant

1. Leave-on products: skin cosmetics, hair care cosmetics

2. Rinse-off products: skin cosmetics, hair care cosmetics

≤90%2021/12/2Honeywell International Inc.
6Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate928663-45-0Cleansing agentShampoo, bath products, facial cleansing products and other cleansing cosmetics (Not to be used in eye products)≤11%2021/12/8Innospec (Beijing) Inc.
7Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris (Trimethylsiloxy) silylethyl Dimethicone
1466529-58-7Emulsifying agentAll kinds of cosmetics2%-8%
2022/1/17Dow Chemical (Zhang Jiagang) Investment Co., Ltd.
8Nicotinamide Mononucleotide1094-61-7Skin protectant, moisturizer, antioxidantAll types of cosmetics, except lip products, oral hygiene products and spray products≤3%2022/1/24Yuyao Lifespan Health Technology Co., Ltd.
9Polymethylsilsesquioxane/trimethylsiloxysilicate1402155-47-8Film FormerAll kinds of cosmetics≤30%2022/1/25Grant Industries, Inc
10Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Crosspolymer1176663-96-9

Thickener


All kinds of cosmetics
  • Rinse-off cosmetics: 5%;

  • Leave-on cosmetics: 2.5%

2022/2/16Clariant International Ltd.
11Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone
1126942-72-0Hair conditionerShampoo, hair conditioner, hair treatment and other hair care products10%2022/2/23Momentive (Shanghai) Trading Co., Ltd.
12Chenopodium formosanum Extract/Skin protectantAll kinds of cosmetics≤0.7%2022/3/7Baiyuet Biotechnology (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.
13β-Nicotinamide Mononucleotide
1094-61-7Skin protectant, moisturizerAll kinds of skin-applicable cosmetics≤10%2022/3/29Kangying Rubyberries (Zhongshan) Biotechnology Co., Ltd.
14Zinc Hydrolyzed Hyaluronate/Skin protectant, moisturizerAll kinds of cosmetics≤1.0% (as Zinc)2022/4/20Bloomage Biotechnology Co., Ltd.
15β-Nicotinamide Mononucleotide1094-61-7Anti-wrinkle agent, skin protectant, antioxidantAll kinds of skin-applicable cosmetics<3%2022/4/29Shenzhen Winkey Pharmaceutical R&D Co., Ltd.
16Dendrobium Officinale Protocorm
Dendrobillm
O
ffic
in
ale
Protocorm
/Anti-wrinkle agent, moisturizerAll kinds of cosmetics≤4.0%2022/5/18Dalian Practical Biotechnology Co., Ltd.
17Acetylneuraminic Acid131-48-6Anti-wrinkle agent, antioxidant, skin protectant, and moisturizerWhole-body skin≤2.0%2022/5/31Wuhan Zhongke Optics Valley Green Biotechnology Co., Ltd.
18Oligopeptide-215/Skin protectantAll kinds of cosmetics applicable for any skin≤3.0%2022/6/14Shenzhen Winkey Pharmaceutical R&D Co., Ltd.
19Nicotinamide Mononucleotide1094-61-7Skin protectant, moisturizer, and antioxidantAll kinds of cosmetics≤3%2022/6/29Yuyao Lifespan Health Technology Co., Ltd.
20Amidinobenzyl Benzylsulfonyl D-Seryl Homophenylalaninamide Acetate1393815-16-1Skin protectant and moisturizerAll kinds of cosmetics applicable for any skin (include rinse-off and leave-on types)0.001%2022/7/5DSM Vitamins (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.
21Lard61789-99-9Skin protectant, emollient,  moisturizer, solvent, and sealing agentIt is suitable for oil-phase matrix cosmetic ingredients, and can be widely used in cream, lotion, cleaning, sunscreen, makeup and other cosmetics.≤95%2022/7/6Sichuan Luming Hill Ecological Agriculture Technology Co., Ltd.
22Hydrolyzed Calcium Hyaluronate/Skin protectant and moisturizerAll kinds of cosmetics≤2.0%2022/7/12Bloomage Biotechnology Co., Ltd.
23Chlorotrifluoropropene102687-65-0Solvent, cooling agent
  • Leave-on products: skin cosmetics, hair cosmetics

  • Rinse-off products: skin cosmetics, hair cosmetics

≤90%2022/7/18

Honeywell Trading (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.

24Silicone Ouaternium-20280569-78-0Hair conditionerAll kinds of hair cosmetics

≤3.0%, recommended concentration in cosmetics: 0.5~3.0%

2022/7/20Siltech Corporation
25

Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl

PPG-20 Crosspolymer

1043538-34-6Skin sensory modifier and thickenerSkin care, makeup and sunscreen cosmetics0.17-11%2022/7/28Dow Chemical (Zhang Jiagang) Investment Co., Ltd.
26Hydroxyethyl Imidazolidinone3699-54-5MoisturizerAll kinds of cosmetics≤1.5%2022/7/28Shiseido Co., Ltd.
27PIPERIDINEPROPIONIC ACID26371-07-3MoisturizerAll kinds of cosmetics≤3.0%2022/7/28Shiseido Co., Ltd.
28TMP Lauryl Dimethicone1961223-88-0Emulsion stabilizerAll kinds of cosmetics≤5.0%, recommended concentration in cosmetics: 1.0-5.0%, 3.0-5.0% is better2022/8/2Siltech Corporation
29Cyclohexylglycerin10305-41-6MoisturizerAll kinds of skin care, hair care and makeup products5%2022/8/18Adeka Corporation
30Polyurethane-3467815-81-0
Film formerLeave-on cosmetics32%2022/8/19Covestro Deutschland AG
31
Polyurethane-481346107-02-5Film formerLeave-on cosmetics30%2022/8/19Covestro Deutschland AG
32Acetylneuraminic Acid131-48-6Anti-wrinkle agent, skin protectant, moisturizer, antioxidantIt is suitable for whole body skin care≤2.0%2022/8/19Bloomage Biotechnology Co., Ltd.
33Bakuchiol10309-37-2Skin protectant, skin sensory modifier, moisturizer and antioxidantAll kinds of facial cosmetics2%2022/8/26Sytheon Corporation
34Polylactic Acid9051-89-2Film former, exfoliator, emulsion stabilizer, emulsifier
All kinds of cosmetics
≤10%2022/9/5LX Hausys,Ltd.
35Saccharomyces / Pearl Ferment Lysate Filtrate/Skin protectant, moisturizer and antioxidant
All kinds of cosmetics

1) For facial leave-on cosmetics

  • Essence: ≤8%

  • Cream: ≤7%

  • Lotion: ≤4%

  • Sunblock: ≤22%

  • Foundation (liquid): ≤25%

  • Foundation (powder): ≤41%

  • Other products: ≤1.9%

 

2) For body leave-on cosmetics

  • Body cream and lotion: ≤0.7%

  • Other products: ≤0.3%

 

3) Hand cream: ≤1.7%

 

4) Eye leave-on cosmetics: ≤9%

 

5) Lip leave-on cosmetics: ≤100%

 

6) Facial rinse-off cosmetics: ≤100%
2022/9/13

Zhejiang Osm Group Deqing Bio-tech Co., Ltd.

36Acetobacter / Lactobacillus / Saccharomyces / Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract / Sucrose Fermet Filtrate/Skin protectantAll kinds of skin cosmetics5%
2022/9/13Sethic (Guangzhou) Technology R&D Co., Ltd.
37
Silicone Quaternium-261551351-87-1Hair conditionerShampoo, hair conditioner, hair mask, hair oil and other hair care products10%2022/9/15Momentive (Shanghai) Trading Co., Ltd.
38Palmitoyl Dipeptide-181206591-87-8ThickenerAll kinds of cosmetics≤2%2022/9/15Nissan Chemical Corporation
39Bis-diisopropanolamine-PG-Propyl Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PEG-14 Copolymer1253692-80-6Hair conditionerShampoo, hair conditioner, hair dyeing products, hair mask productsThere is no safety-based usage limit requirements.
However, according to the application and formula test results, notifer’s  recommended concentration is 0.1-6% by weight in the formula of shampoo, hair conditioner, hair dyeing products, and hair mask products.
2022/9/20Dow Chemical (Zhang Jiagang) Investment Co., Ltd.
40Lauroyl/Myristoyl Methyl Glucamide287735-50-6Softener, foaming agent, skin sensory modifier, hair conditioner, cleanserRinse-off cosmetics7%2022/10/9Clariant International Ltd.
41Sodium Hydrolyzed Potato Starch Dodecenylsuccinate1218992-20-1Foaming agentRinse-off cosmetics10%2022/10/13
Nouryon Surface Chemistry LLC
42Hibiscus taiwanensis root/stem extract/Skin Protectant, antioxidantRinse-off and leave-on cosmetics, the maximum limit for both is 2%≤2%2022/10/17Juwenlee (Fujian) Cosmetics Co., Ltd.
43

Perfluorobutylethyl Stearyl Dimethicone [New]

915223-67-5Hair styling agent, moisturizer, dispersantAll kinds of cosmetics2%
2022/10/28Elkem Silicones (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.
44Cordyceps cicada mycelium extract [New]/Skin protectant, moisturizer, antioxidantAll kinds of cosmetics applicable for any skinRecommended concentration: 1-10%, theoretical experience value2022/11/04Shanghai Grape King Co., Ltd.
45Euphausia Superba Oil [New]/MoisturizerAll kinds of cosmetics18.5%2022/11/04Zhongguan Biotechnology (Hunchun) Co., Ltd.

Cosmetic companies looking to use the above 45 ingredients in the cosmetic products can contact the notified companies for authorization. When using the new cosmetic ingredient, the cosmetic company shall also monitor the ingredient and report the safety status to the notified company within the 3 years.

2. General Cosmetics

Different from before, the total number of notified domestic and imported general cosmetics is no longer displayed on NMPA's website. When searching notified general cosmetics’ information, only after the detailed product name, notification number or name of a notifier is input, the specific notified product information can be displayed.

The detailed information of a notified product made public includes:

  • Product name (Chinese & English)

  • Notification number

  • Notification date

  • Name of the notifier (Chinese & English)

  • Address of the notifier (Chinese & English)

  • Country/region of the notifier

  • Name and address of the responsible person

  • Manufacturer

  • Province of import

  • Ingredient listing

  • Inspection status after notification

  • History

  • Notes

  • Product packaging

  • Executive standards, including sensory index, microbiological, physical and chemical indicators, application method, precautions, warnings, storage conditions and durability.

For the notification of general cosmetics, it should be noted that although the pre-market review on dossiers is canceled, the technical requirements for products are not reduced. The government will implement stricter inspections on the notified cosmetics. In addition, the notifiers are required to submit the annual report for cosmetics notified from January 1, 2022. Once non-compliance or violations are found, the notifiers will be subject to severer punishments than before.

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