Editor’s Note: This article was originally published on Sep. 8, 2021, and was updated on Nov. 18, 2022, as per the latest developments.
Starting from May 1, 2021, China has implemented a notification system for general cosmetics and low-risk new cosmetic ingredients. Under the new system, as long as companies completed the submission of dossiers online, their cosmetics/new cosmetic ingredients are considered as “notified” and then can be manufactured or imported. There is no longer a pre-market review on notification dossiers, instead, the basic notification information will be made public within five working days after the submission.
How many new cosmetic ingredients and cosmetic products have been notified during the past months? What kind of ingredient or product information has been disclosed to the public? ChemLinked summarizes and shares the details as follows:
1. New Cosmetic Ingredients
According to the NMPA's website, 45 new cosmetic ingredients have been publicized so far, 20 are from Chinese companies and 25 are from overseas companies. It is a huge step forward for China as only 8 new cosmetic ingredients were approved from 2009 to April 2021. It can be estimated that the industry will see a great increase in the number of notified new cosmetic ingredients.
The website discloses the following information of the 45 new cosmetic ingredients to the public:
The standard Chinese name of the ingredient
Notification number
Name of the notifier (Chinese & English)
Address of the notifier
Region/country of the notifier
Name of the responsible person in China
Address of the responsible person in China
Status, e.g., in the monitoring period
Inspection status after notification
Notification Date
Technical requirements of the ingredient, e.g., INCI name, CAS number, ingredient’s origin, ingredient’s traits, physicochemical properties, the maximum concentration, applicable scope, etc.
Notes
The noteworthy information of the 45 ingredients is shown in the table below:
| No. | INCI Name | CAS No. | Purpose of Use | Applicable Scope | The Maximum Concentration | Notified Date | Notified Company |
| 1 | Acetylneuraminic Acid | 131-48-6 | Moisturizer | Whole-body skin | ≤2% | 2021/6/28 | Wuhan Zhongke Optics Valley Green Biotechnology Co.,Ltd. |
| 2 | Lauroyl Alanine | 52558-74-4 | Cleansing agent | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤20% | 2021/6/28 | Suzhou Weimei Biotechnology Co., Ltd. |
| 3 | β-Alanyl Hydroxyprolyldiaminobutyroyl Benzylamide | / | Skin protectant | 1. Rinse-off products: cleansing products and massage products 2. Leave-on products: toner, lotion, mask, etc. 3. Make-up: foundation | 0.00001%-1.0% | 2021/8/6 | Shenzhen Winkey Pharmaceutical R&D Co., Ltd. |
| 4 | Tissue Culture of Saussurea Involucrata | / | Antioxidants | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤4% | 2021/8/13 | Dalian Practical Biotechnology Co., Ltd. |
| 5 | Tetrafluoropropene | 29118-24-9 | Propellant | 1. Leave-on products: skin cosmetics, hair care cosmetics 2. Rinse-off products: skin cosmetics, hair care cosmetics | ≤90% | 2021/12/2 | Honeywell International Inc. |
| 6 | Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate | 928663-45-0 | Cleansing agent | Shampoo, bath products, facial cleansing products and other cleansing cosmetics (Not to be used in eye products) | ≤11% | 2021/12/8 | Innospec (Beijing) Inc. |
| 7 | Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris (Trimethylsiloxy) silylethyl Dimethicone | 1466529-58-7 | Emulsifying agent | All kinds of cosmetics | 2%-8% | 2022/1/17 | Dow Chemical (Zhang Jiagang) Investment Co., Ltd. |
| 8 | Nicotinamide Mononucleotide | 1094-61-7 | Skin protectant, moisturizer, antioxidant | All types of cosmetics, except lip products, oral hygiene products and spray products | ≤3% | 2022/1/24 | Yuyao Lifespan Health Technology Co., Ltd. |
| 9 | Polymethylsilsesquioxane/trimethylsiloxysilicate | 1402155-47-8 | Film Former | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤30% | 2022/1/25 | Grant Industries, Inc |
| 10 | Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Crosspolymer | 1176663-96-9 | Thickener | All kinds of cosmetics |
| 2022/2/16 | Clariant International Ltd. |
| 11 | Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone | 1126942-72-0 | Hair conditioner | Shampoo, hair conditioner, hair treatment and other hair care products | 10% | 2022/2/23 | Momentive (Shanghai) Trading Co., Ltd. |
| 12 | Chenopodium formosanum Extract | / | Skin protectant | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤0.7% | 2022/3/7 | Baiyuet Biotechnology (Shanghai) Co., Ltd. |
| 13 | β-Nicotinamide Mononucleotide | 1094-61-7 | Skin protectant, moisturizer | All kinds of skin-applicable cosmetics | ≤10% | 2022/3/29 | Kangying Rubyberries (Zhongshan) Biotechnology Co., Ltd. |
| 14 | Zinc Hydrolyzed Hyaluronate | / | Skin protectant, moisturizer | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤1.0% (as Zinc) | 2022/4/20 | Bloomage Biotechnology Co., Ltd. |
| 15 | β-Nicotinamide Mononucleotide | 1094-61-7 | Anti-wrinkle agent, skin protectant, antioxidant | All kinds of skin-applicable cosmetics | <3% | 2022/4/29 | Shenzhen Winkey Pharmaceutical R&D Co., Ltd. |
| 16 | Dendrobium Officinale Protocorm Dendrobillm O ffic in ale Protocorm | / | Anti-wrinkle agent, moisturizer | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤4.0% | 2022/5/18 | Dalian Practical Biotechnology Co., Ltd. |
| 17 | Acetylneuraminic Acid | 131-48-6 | Anti-wrinkle agent, antioxidant, skin protectant, and moisturizer | Whole-body skin | ≤2.0% | 2022/5/31 | Wuhan Zhongke Optics Valley Green Biotechnology Co., Ltd. |
| 18 | Oligopeptide-215 | / | Skin protectant | All kinds of cosmetics applicable for any skin | ≤3.0% | 2022/6/14 | Shenzhen Winkey Pharmaceutical R&D Co., Ltd. |
| 19 | Nicotinamide Mononucleotide | 1094-61-7 | Skin protectant, moisturizer, and antioxidant | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤3% | 2022/6/29 | Yuyao Lifespan Health Technology Co., Ltd. |
| 20 | Amidinobenzyl Benzylsulfonyl D-Seryl Homophenylalaninamide Acetate | 1393815-16-1 | Skin protectant and moisturizer | All kinds of cosmetics applicable for any skin (include rinse-off and leave-on types) | 0.001% | 2022/7/5 | DSM Vitamins (Shanghai) Co., Ltd. |
| 21 | Lard | 61789-99-9 | Skin protectant, emollient, moisturizer, solvent, and sealing agent | It is suitable for oil-phase matrix cosmetic ingredients, and can be widely used in cream, lotion, cleaning, sunscreen, makeup and other cosmetics. | ≤95% | 2022/7/6 | Sichuan Luming Hill Ecological Agriculture Technology Co., Ltd. |
| 22 | Hydrolyzed Calcium Hyaluronate | / | Skin protectant and moisturizer | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤2.0% | 2022/7/12 | Bloomage Biotechnology Co., Ltd. |
| 23 | Chlorotrifluoropropene | 102687-65-0 | Solvent, cooling agent |
| ≤90% | 2022/7/18 | Honeywell Trading (Shanghai) Co., Ltd. |
| 24 | Silicone Ouaternium-20 | 280569-78-0 | Hair conditioner | All kinds of hair cosmetics | ≤3.0%, recommended concentration in cosmetics: 0.5~3.0% | 2022/7/20 | Siltech Corporation |
| 25 | Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer | 1043538-34-6 | Skin sensory modifier and thickener | Skin care, makeup and sunscreen cosmetics | 0.17-11% | 2022/7/28 | Dow Chemical (Zhang Jiagang) Investment Co., Ltd. |
| 26 | Hydroxyethyl Imidazolidinone | 3699-54-5 | Moisturizer | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤1.5% | 2022/7/28 | Shiseido Co., Ltd. |
| 27 | PIPERIDINEPROPIONIC ACID | 26371-07-3 | Moisturizer | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤3.0% | 2022/7/28 | Shiseido Co., Ltd. |
| 28 | TMP Lauryl Dimethicone | 1961223-88-0 | Emulsion stabilizer | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤5.0%, recommended concentration in cosmetics: 1.0-5.0%, 3.0-5.0% is better | 2022/8/2 | Siltech Corporation |
| 29 | Cyclohexylglycerin | 10305-41-6 | Moisturizer | All kinds of skin care, hair care and makeup products | 5% | 2022/8/18 | Adeka Corporation |
| 30 | Polyurethane-34 | 67815-81-0 | Film former | Leave-on cosmetics | 32% | 2022/8/19 | Covestro Deutschland AG |
| 31 | Polyurethane-48 | 1346107-02-5 | Film former | Leave-on cosmetics | 30% | 2022/8/19 | Covestro Deutschland AG |
| 32 | Acetylneuraminic Acid | 131-48-6 | Anti-wrinkle agent, skin protectant, moisturizer, antioxidant | It is suitable for whole body skin care | ≤2.0% | 2022/8/19 | Bloomage Biotechnology Co., Ltd. |
| 33 | Bakuchiol | 10309-37-2 | Skin protectant, skin sensory modifier, moisturizer and antioxidant | All kinds of facial cosmetics | 2% | 2022/8/26 | Sytheon Corporation |
| 34 | Polylactic Acid | 9051-89-2 | Film former, exfoliator, emulsion stabilizer, emulsifier | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤10% | 2022/9/5 | LX Hausys,Ltd. |
| 35 | Saccharomyces / Pearl Ferment Lysate Filtrate | / | Skin protectant, moisturizer and antioxidant | All kinds of cosmetics | 1) For facial leave-on cosmetics
2) For body leave-on cosmetics
3) Hand cream: ≤1.7%
4) Eye leave-on cosmetics: ≤9%
5) Lip leave-on cosmetics: ≤100% 6) Facial rinse-off cosmetics: ≤100% | 2022/9/13 | Zhejiang Osm Group Deqing Bio-tech Co., Ltd. |
| 36 | Acetobacter / Lactobacillus / Saccharomyces / Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract / Sucrose Fermet Filtrate | / | Skin protectant | All kinds of skin cosmetics | 5% | 2022/9/13 | Sethic (Guangzhou) Technology R&D Co., Ltd. |
| 37 | Silicone Quaternium-26 | 1551351-87-1 | Hair conditioner | Shampoo, hair conditioner, hair mask, hair oil and other hair care products | 10% | 2022/9/15 | Momentive (Shanghai) Trading Co., Ltd. |
| 38 | Palmitoyl Dipeptide-18 | 1206591-87-8 | Thickener | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤2% | 2022/9/15 | Nissan Chemical Corporation |
| 39 | Bis-diisopropanolamine-PG-Propyl Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PEG-14 Copolymer | 1253692-80-6 | Hair conditioner | Shampoo, hair conditioner, hair dyeing products, hair mask products | There is no safety-based usage limit requirements. However, according to the application and formula test results, notifer’s recommended concentration is 0.1-6% by weight in the formula of shampoo, hair conditioner, hair dyeing products, and hair mask products. | 2022/9/20 | Dow Chemical (Zhang Jiagang) Investment Co., Ltd. |
| 40 | Lauroyl/Myristoyl Methyl Glucamide | 287735-50-6 | Softener, foaming agent, skin sensory modifier, hair conditioner, cleanser | Rinse-off cosmetics | 7% | 2022/10/9 | Clariant International Ltd. |
| 41 | Sodium Hydrolyzed Potato Starch Dodecenylsuccinate | 1218992-20-1 | Foaming agent | Rinse-off cosmetics | 10% | 2022/10/13 | Nouryon Surface Chemistry LLC |
| 42 | Hibiscus taiwanensis root/stem extract | / | Skin Protectant, antioxidant | Rinse-off and leave-on cosmetics, the maximum limit for both is 2% | ≤2% | 2022/10/17 | Juwenlee (Fujian) Cosmetics Co., Ltd. |
| 43 | Perfluorobutylethyl Stearyl Dimethicone [New] | 915223-67-5 | Hair styling agent, moisturizer, dispersant | All kinds of cosmetics | 2% | 2022/10/28 | Elkem Silicones (Shanghai) Co., Ltd. |
| 44 | Cordyceps cicada mycelium extract [New] | / | Skin protectant, moisturizer, antioxidant | All kinds of cosmetics applicable for any skin | Recommended concentration: 1-10%, theoretical experience value | 2022/11/04 | Shanghai Grape King Co., Ltd. |
| 45 | Euphausia Superba Oil [New] | / | Moisturizer | All kinds of cosmetics | 18.5% | 2022/11/04 | Zhongguan Biotechnology (Hunchun) Co., Ltd. |
Cosmetic companies looking to use the above 45 ingredients in the cosmetic products can contact the notified companies for authorization. When using the new cosmetic ingredient, the cosmetic company shall also monitor the ingredient and report the safety status to the notified company within the 3 years.
2. General Cosmetics
Different from before, the total number of notified domestic and imported general cosmetics is no longer displayed on NMPA's website. When searching notified general cosmetics’ information, only after the detailed product name, notification number or name of a notifier is input, the specific notified product information can be displayed.


The detailed information of a notified product made public includes:
Product name (Chinese & English)
Notification number
Notification date
Name of the notifier (Chinese & English)
Address of the notifier (Chinese & English)
Country/region of the notifier
Name and address of the responsible person
Manufacturer
Province of import
Ingredient listing
Inspection status after notification
History
Notes
Product packaging
Executive standards, including sensory index, microbiological, physical and chemical indicators, application method, precautions, warnings, storage conditions and durability.
For the notification of general cosmetics, it should be noted that although the pre-market review on dossiers is canceled, the technical requirements for products are not reduced. The government will implement stricter inspections on the notified cosmetics. In addition, the notifiers are required to submit the annual report for cosmetics notified from January 1, 2022. Once non-compliance or violations are found, the notifiers will be subject to severer punishments than before.
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