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Indonesian Halal Auditors Detail Requirements on Halal Cosmetics

  •   18 Nov 2019
  •    Hedy He
  •  327
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    Takehome:
    2019 In-cosmetics Exhibition was held in Thailand from Nov. 5-7, 2019. During the exhibition, halal auditors from LPPOM MUI detailed the requirements on Indonesian halal cosmetics.

    *LPPOM MUI: Cosmetics, food and drugs assessment body of halal certificate issuing institution in Indonesia.

    Indonesia' s Halal Law took effect on Oct. 17, 2019. Halal-certified products must label "Halal" on the outer packaging, or "non-halal" information for products not certified as halal. According to Ms. Muti Arintawati, the vice director of LPPOM MUI, halal labeling of cosmetics will be mandatory from Oct.17, 2024. The current focus of the Halal certification policy is food and beverage products.

    Prohibited & Critical Ingredients in Halal Cosmetics

    According to Ms. Muti, for cosmetics like lipstick, toothpastes which could be unintentionally swallowed, their halal certification requirements are the same as food and must be free from haram or najis materials. For cosmetics for external use such as body lotion, soap, they shall be water translucent and free from najis materials.

    1. Haram Materials

    Haram means prohibited or unlawful according to Islamic Shariah Law. Haram materials including the following:

    • Blood, carrion, pork, animal slaughtered by not mentioning the name of Allah (God), khamr, parts of human body.
    • Wild animal (carnivour), animals with sharp teeth and claws, amphibia (animal that live in both land and water).

    Exception: All animals from the sea are halal although not slaughtered

    2. Najis Materials

    Najis refers to uncleanliness, analogous to the contamination of something considered halal. Object that is exposed to najis material is called mutannajis. Every najis and mutannajis material is haram to be consumed.

    And najis materials are classified as heavy, medium and light 3 levels.

    • Heavy Najis: Pig and its derivatives and saliva from dog
    • Medium Najis: Urine, feces, carrion, khamr, blood, etc.
    • Light Najis: Urine from baby boy who only breastfeed

    3. Critical Cosmetic Ingredients

    According to MDPI [1], critical ingredients refers to ingredients originated from sources (e.g., unspecified animals, halal animals slaughtered in an unspecified manner) and process of synthesis (e.g., incorporation of haram processing aids, contamination with haram or najis) nonconforming to the halal system. However, the use of alternatively sourced ingredients classified as “critical” may still be allowed to be part of a halal cosmetic product after the manufacturer has secured halal certification for its origin and production, at the same time, uncontaminated with najis.

    Ms. Muti listed some examples of cosmetic product and its critical ingredients in her speech.

    Product CategoryExample of Ingredients
    Soap (obtained by saponification of vegetable or animal oils and fats with a strongly alkaline solution)Glycerin, vitamin E, lanolin, olive oil, propylen glycol, placental enzyme, sodium stearate, fragrance, sodium tallowate, sodium cocoate, water, glycerin, sucrose, denaturate, sodium stearate, fragrance, honey, pentasodium pentenate, tetrasodium-ethidronate, D&C yellow No.10, D&C Red No.33
    Hair ColoringStearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, sodium lauryl sulphate, lanolin, alcohol, salicylic acid, disodium phosphate, H2O2, hydrolize keratin, perfume, etidronic acid, phosphoric acid
    Hair VitaminJojoba oil, cyclomethicon, vitamin A, vitamin C, Vitamin E8, polysilicone-15, fragrance
    Note: manufacture in soft gel
    LipsticksOctyl methoxycinnimate, simethicone, petroleum destillate, tetraisostearate, bis-dis-glyceryl polycyladipate-2, methyl methacrylate crossploymer, aqua, candelilla cera, rice wax, beeswax, titanium hydroxide, hydrogenated-jojoba oil,  tocopheryl acetate, propylene carbonate, butylene glycol, wheat germ oil, perfume, hydrolized collagen, propyl paraben, glyceryl stearate, tocopherol, ascorbyl palmitate, methyl paraben, etc.
    LipbalmCera microcristaline, octyldodecanal, hydrogenated polydecene, cetyl palmitate, ricinus communis seed oil, myristil miristate, VP/hexadecene co polymer, cetearyl alcohol, polyglyceryl 3-disostearate, butyrospermum parkii butter, cocoglycerides, benzyl benzoate, citral, VP/eicosene copolymer, C20-40 alkyl stearate, cera carnauba, simmonsia chinensis oil, pentoerythritil tetraisostearate, panthenol, vitis vinifera seed oil, glycerin, cera alba, aqua, limonene, linalool, perfume
    ToothpasteSorbitol, sodium floride, sodium saccharine, titanium oxide, propylene glycol, methyl paraben, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, sodium polyacrylate, SiO2, sodium lauryl sulphate, water, xylitol, flavour
    Primary Packaging
    • Glass
    • Plastics --> polietilen, polietilen tereftalat (PET), polipropilen (PP), polivinil khlorida (PVC), akrilik
    • Elastic --> chloropen rubber, isoprene, butyl, polysacphides, silicon, polyurethane
    • Metal --> Tin, aluminium and steel

    Critical points:

    • Additives: Plastisizer (glycerol, sorbitol, gelatin), dye (animal fatty acid mixture)
    • Processing aid: catalyst, calcium stearate

    *Critical points or ingredients in these products are marked in red.

    Comparison of Current and Previous Halal Certification Policy

    The following table is the comparison of halal certification policy before and after Oct. 17, 2019 provided in the speech of Ms. Dewi, the Indonesian halal auditor also the founder of DRS Consulta. In short, Indonesian halal certification policy is going to be more standardized.

    ItemBefore Oct. 17, 2019Oct 17, 2019 Onward
    Type of CertificateFacility & ProductProduct
    Validity of Certificate2 years4 years
    Halal SystemHalal Assurance System
    HAS 23000
    Halal Management System
    SNI:99001:2016
    Scope of RecognitionSlaughtering, Raw Material, Flavor/FragranceFinished product
    Halal Responsible PersonInternal Halal Coordinator (KAHI) - trainedHalal Supervisor (trained & certified)
    Halal AuditorTrainedTrained, Certified, Registered
    Source: DRS Consulta

    Halal Certification Challenges

    Ms. Muti also presented several challenges that need to be taken into account in the development of halal cosmetics. These challenges are still waiting to be solved in the future.

    • Public awareness of halal cosmetic products is increasing not only in Indonesia but also internationally, however the awareness of having halal cosmetics is far behind the awareness of having halal food product
    • Cosmetics use a lot of ingredients. The halal status of each ingredients is not easy to be traced, because of the lack of halal material knowledge from manufacturer/supplier
    • It is difficult to find a halal substitute material for some cosmetics ingredients
    • It is a challenge to have a formula water resistant product that still can be penetrated by water
    • Some packaging and application equipment such as blush brushes, lipstick brushes still use non-halal material.

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    ABOUT THE AUTHOR

    ChemLinked Editor

    Tracking regulatory change news in Asia Pacific area and focusing on cosmetic ingredient requirements, registration/filing/notification procedures of China and South Korea.

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