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On July 8, 2022, China National Institutes for Food and Drug Control (NIFDC) launched public consultation on three draft testing methods for 72 cosmetic ingredients, including 40 fragrance components, 24 prohibited colorants, and 8 hair perming agents. Cosmetic stakeholders can send suggestions to [email protected] before July 31, 2022.
1. Determination of Ethyl Acrylate and Other 39 Kinds of Components in Cosmetics
Regarding the determination of fragrance components, China has set national standards such as "GB/T 24800.9-2009 Determination of Citral, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Anise Alcohol, Cinammal and Courmarin in Cosmetics by Gas Chromatography Method" and "GB/T 24800.10-2009 Determination of 19 Flavors in Cosmetics by Gas Chromatography-mass Spectrometry Method". However, it is found that these standards cannot fully meet the testing demand in practice, therefore this new method is developed.
This method aims to provide guidance for the identification and content determination of 40 fragrance components (see Table 1 below) in the perfume, powder, cream, emulsion, wax-based and liquid water-based cosmetics by Gas Chromatography-mass Spectrometry (GC-MS) method. Among these 40 components, 24 are allergens specified in EU Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 (EU Cosmetics Regulation), and the other 16 are prohibited fragrance components included in Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics 2015 (STSC 2015) and national standard "GB/T 22731-2017 Fragrance Compound".
| Table 1: The Basic Information of 40 Fragrance Components | ||
| Ref No. | Ingredient Name | CAS No. |
| 1 | Ethyl Acrylate | 140-88-5 |
| 2 | Methyl trans-2-butenoate | 623-43-8 |
| 3 | 5-Methyl-2,3-hexanedione / Acetyl Isovaleryl | 13706-86-0 |
| 4 | Trans-2-heptenal | 18829-55-5 |
| 5 | Allyl Isothiocyanate | 57-06-7 |
| 6 | Dimethyl Citraconate | 617-54-9 |
| 7 | Diethyl Maleate | 141-05-9 |
| 8 | Benzyl Cyanide | 140-29-4 |
| 9 | 4-Phenylbut-3-en-2-one | 122-57-6 |
| 10 | 4-tert-Butylphenol | 98-54-4 |
| 11 | p-Hydroxyanisole | 150-76-5 |
| 12 | 4-ethoxyphenol | 622-62-8 |
| 13 | Musk Ambrette / 4-tert-Butyl-3-methoxy-2,6-dinitrotoluene | 83-66-9 |
| 14 | Diphenylamine | 122-39-4 |
| 15 | 7-Methoxycoumarin | 531-59-9 |
| 16 | 7-Ethoxy-4-methylcoumarin | 87-05-8 |
| 17 | d-Limonene | 5989-27-5 |
| 18 | Linalool | 78-70-6 |
| 19 | Methyl 2-octynoate | 111-12-6 |
| 20 | Citral | 5392-40-5 |
| 21 | Citronellol | 106-22-9 |
| 22 | Geraniol | 106-24-1 |
| 23 | Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone | 127-51-5 |
| 24 | Benzyl Alcohol | 100-51-6 |
| 25 | Hydroxycitronellal | 107-75-5 |
| 26 | Cinnamal | 104-55-2 |
| 27 | Butylphenyl Methylpropional | 80-54-6 |
| 28 | Eugenol | 97-53-0 |
| 29 | Amyl Cinnamal | 122-40-7 |
| 30 | Anisyl Alcohol | 105-13-5 |
| 31 | Cinnamyl Alcohol | 104-54-1 |
| 32 | Farnesol | 4602-84-0 |
| 33 | Isoeugenol | 97-54-1 |
| 34 | Hexyl Cinnamaldehyde | 101-86-0 |
| 35 | Coumarin | 91-64-5 |
| 36 | 4-(4-Hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)cyclohex-3-ene-1-carbaldehyde | 31906-04-4 |
| 37 | Amyl Cinnamyl Alcohol | 101-85-9 |
| 38 | Benzyl Benzoate | 120-51-4 |
| 39 | Benzyl Salicylate | 118-58-1 |
| 40 | Benzyl Cinnamate | 103-41-3 |
2. Determination of CI 59040 and Other 23 Kinds of Components in Cosmetics
Currently the testing methods targeted at prohibited colorants in hair dyeing products are quite limited in China. Only one method for CI 42510 and CI 44045 is specified in STSC 2015. With the aim of filling the gap, this testing method is devised, stipulating the determination of 24 prohibited colorants in hair dyeing products by High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC).
Table 2: The Basic Information of 24 Prohibited Colorants | ||
| Ref No. | CI No. | CAS No. |
| 1 | CI 59040 | 6358-69-6 |
| 2 | CI 10020 | 19381-50-1 |
| 3 | CI 45430 | 16423-68-0 |
| 4 | CI 14700 | 4548-53-2 |
| 5 | CI 45350 | 518-47-8 |
| 6 | CI 14270 | 547-57-9 |
| 7 | CI 45380 | 17372-87-1 |
| 8 | CI 16185 | 915-67-3 |
| 9 | CI 42053 | 2353-45-9 |
| 10 | CI 42045 | 129-17-9 |
| 11 | CI 42051 | 3536-49-0 |
| 12 | CI 58000 | 72-48-0 |
| 13 | CI 15880 | 6417-83-0 |
| 14 | CI 45190 | 6252-76-2 |
| 15 | CI 15800 | 6371-76-2 |
| 16 | CI 11920 | 2051-85-6 |
| 17 | CI 12010 | 6535-42-8 |
| 18 | CI 45370 | 4372-2-5 |
| 19 | CI 12085 | 2814-77-9 |
| 20 | CI 44045 | 2580-56-5 |
| 21 | CI 42510 | 632-99-5 |
| 22 | CI 47000 | 8003-22-3 |
| 23 | CI 60725 | 81-48-1 |
| 24 | CI 61565 | 128-80-3 |
3. Determination of Thioglycollic Acid and Other 7 Kinds of Components in Cosmetics
This method introduces the determination of eight hair perming agents in cosmetics by HPLC, including Thioglycollic Acid. It is developed to replace the method specified in STSC 2015 for the determination of Thioglycollic Acid. Compared to its predecessor, the new method is further optimized to deal with samples with different properties, and is applicable to six more Thioglycollic Acid Esters, covering those newly appear in cosmetics registration and notification, as well as those listed in Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (IECIC) and EU Cosmetics Regulation.
| Table 3: The Basic Information of 8 Hair Perming Agents | ||
| Ref No. | Ingredient Name | CAS No. |
| 1 | Thioglycolic Acid | 68-11-1 |
| 2 | Glyceryl Thioglycolate | 30618-84-9 |
| 3 | Methyl Thioglycolate | 2365-48-2 |
| 4 | Dithiodiglycolic Acid | 505-73-7 |
| 5 | Ethyl Thioglycolate | 623-51-8 |
| 6 | Isopropyl Thioglycolate | 7383-61-1 |
| 7 | Butyl Thioglycolate | 10047-28-6 |
| 8 | 2-Ethylhexyl Thioglycolate | 7659-86-1 |
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