UK SAG-CS Issues Opinions on Dihydroxyacetone, Benzophenone-3, and Octocrylene

Recently, the Scientific Advisory Group on Chemical Safety of Non-Food and Non-Medicinal Consumer Products (SAG-CS) of UK published its final opinions on Dihydroxyacetone, Benzophenone-3, and Octocrylene, outlining concentration limits for each ingredient in cosmetics. These opinions only focus on cosmetics for adult use, due to the lack of data for children and adolescents. Risk assessments for these ingredients for these age groups will follow once sufficient data is obtained.^1-3

Opinion on Dihydroxyacetone (CAS No. 96-26-4)

Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is commonly used in cosmetics to achieve a tanned appearance without UV light exposure. At present, it is not subject to UK Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 (the Cosmetics Regulation), while the EU's cosmetics regulatory framework restricts its use to 10% in self-tanning products and 6.25% in non-oxidative hair dyes.

To support the safe use of DHA in cosmetics, the UK cosmetics industry proactively compiled an information dossier and submitted it to the Office for Product Safety and Standards (OPSS), who then tasked SAG-CS with evaluating DAH's safety. Based on the information submitted, SAG-CS concludes that DHA is safe for adult use at specified concentrations in the following products:

• Leave-on self-tan (lotion and non-aerosol spray): 14%

• Leave-on self-tan (spray booth, weekly application): 14%

• Rinse-off self-tan (lotion): 22.5%

• Non-oxidative hair colorant (leave-on): 6.25%

Opinion on Benzophenone-3 (CAS No. 131-57-7)

Benzophenone-3 is currently regulated as a permitted UV filter under UK Cosmetics Regulation. In response to concerns about its potential endocrine-disrupting properties, OPSS called for data on this substance in April 2022, and requested SAG-CS to evaluate its safety as a UV filter in cosmetics.

Based on the assessment results, SAG-CS specifies concentration limits for Benzophenone-3. Compared to current restrictions outlined in the UK Cosmetics Regulation, SAG-CS opinion further restricts product types for its use as a UV filter, and supplements requirements for its use as a stabilizer. 

Opinion on Octocrylene (CAS No. 6197-30-4)

Octocrylene primarily serves as a UV-B filter and stabilizer in sunscreens. Under the UK Cosmetics Regulation, it is currently permitted in cosmetics at a concentration up to 10%. In light of potential endocrine concerns, OPSS initiated a data call on this substance in April 2022, and requested a safety review by SAG-CS. Following the evaluation results, SAG-CS concludes that Octocrylene is safe for use in cosmetics as a UV filter at concentrations up to 10%, whether used alone or in combination.

Further Reading

• UK to Revise Cosmetic Ingredient Lists: 65 Prohibited and 1 Restricted Ingredients Added

• UK Introduces Recycling Labelling Requirements for Packaging Producers

• An Overview of Cosmetics Regulations in Nordic Countries