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SAMR Uncovers 27 Non-Compliant Cosmetic Products

The major reasons for cosmetic inspection failure are the use of banned ingredients, inconsistencies between cosmetic ingredients, labels and administrative license and false production date...

Takehome:

The major reasons for cosmetic inspection failure are the use of banned ingredients, inconsistencies between cosmetic ingredients, labels and administrative license and false production date.

On Jul 18, Jul 20 and Aug 1, 2018, SAMR released 3 announcements detailing data derived from a national cosmetic market sampling and inspection program. A total of 27 cosmetic products were found unqualified. Acne products, sunscreens and hair dyes accounted for the majority of inspection failures. Reasons for inspection failures mainly included the use of banned ingredients, inconsistencies between cosmetic ingredients, labels and administrative license and false production date. The following table shows details:

No.

Product

Subject

Inspection Result

Problem

1

Aloe acne cream

Miconazole

0.51μg/g

Detection of banned ingredients

Griseofulvin

1.02μg/g

2

Acne clean lotion

Ofloxacin

17.3μg/g

3

Anti-acne cream

Metronidazole

6789μg/g

4

Acne clean essential oil

Ofloxacin

1684μg/g

5

Oil control and anti-acne cream

Metronidazole

4132μg/g

Ofloxacin

5877μg/g

6

Acne treatment gel

Metronidazole

8024μg/g

7

Sunscreen

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane

No detection

Absence of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and octocrylene which are claimed on administrative license and labels

Octocrylene

8

Sunscreen

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane

No detection

Absence of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine which are claimed on administrative license and labels

Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine

9

Sunscreen

Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine

0.24%

Contain bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine which is not listed on the label and administrative license

10

Sunscreen

Benzophenone-3

No detection

Absence of benzophenone-3, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and Ethylhexyl salicylate which are claimed on administrative license and labels

4-methylbenzylidene camphor

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane

Ethylhexyl salicylate

11

Sunscreen

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane

No detection

Absence of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate which are claimed on administrative license and labels

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate

12

Sunscreen

Benzophenone-3

No detection

Absence of benzophenone-3, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor and Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane which are claimed on administrative license and labels

4-methylbenzylidene camphor

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane

13

Sunscreen

/

/

The production date on administrative license is inconsistent with the actual

14

Sunscreen

/

/

15

Sunscreen

/

/

16

Sunscreen

/

/

17

Sunscreen

Ethylhexyl salicylate

Detection

Contain ethylhexyl salicylate and homosalate which is not listed on the label and administrative license

Homosalate

4-methylbenzylidene camphor

No detection

Absence of 4-methylbenzylidene camphor which is claimed on administrative license and labels

18

Hair dye

M-aminophenol

No detection

  1. The label is inconsistent with the administrative license
  2. Absence of M-aminophenol, P-phenylenediamine and Resorcinol which are claimed on administrative license and labels

P-phenylenediamine

Resorcinol

19

Hair dye

P-phenylenediamine

Detection

Contain P-phenylenediamine, M-aminophenol and Resorcinol which are not listed on the label and administrative license

M-aminophenol

Resorcinol

4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene

No detection

Absence of 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene and 1-naphthol which are claimed on administrative license and labels

1-naphthol

20

Sunscreen

4-methylbenzylidene camphor

2%

  1. Contain 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate which are not listed on the label
  2. No approval number on product package

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane

2%

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate

4%

21

Sunscreen

4-methylbenzylidene camphor

No detection

  1. Absence of 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, octocrylene and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate which are claimed on administrative licen
  2. The label and product name are inconsistent with administrative license

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane

Octocrylene

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate

22

Sunscreen

Benzophenone-3

No detection

  1. Absence of 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, benzophenone-3 and ethylhexyl salicylate which are claimed on administrative license and labels
  2. Product name is inconsistent with administrative license

4-methylbenzylidene camphor

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane

Ethylhexyl salicylate

23

Sunscreen

Octocrylene

No detection

  1. The label is inconsistent with administrative license
  2. Absence of octocrylene  which are claimed on labels

24

Sunscreen

Ethylhexyl salicylate

4%

Contain ethylhexyl salicylate which is not listed on the label

25

Hair dye

P-phenylenediamine

0.013%

Contain p-phenylenediamine which is not listed on the label

26

Hair dye

4-chlororesorcinol

0.059%

1. Contain p-phenylenediamine which is not listed on the label

2. Administrative license has expired

27

Hair dye

M-aminophenol

0.12%

Contain m-aminophenol and 1-naphthol which are not listed on the label

1-naphthol

0.051%

Circulation of products which violate the requirements articulated within "Regulations concerning the Hygiene Supervision over Cosmetics" and "Administrative Measures on Cosmetics Labeling (draft)" mandate that all associated distributors/retailers should immediately cease sales activities and issue an immediate recall. If the product label can be amended in such a way that the new label and ingredients comply with Chinese regulatory requirements it can be marketed again.

Tips for Enterprises:

  1. Antibiotics are mainly secondary metabolites or synthetic analogues produced by bacteria, mold or other microorganisms, and are mainly used to treat various bacterial infections or fungal infections. Long-term exposure to antibiotic-containing cosmetics can sensitize individuals and cause contact dermatitis and antibiotic allergy, and increase the likelihood of pathogens developing resistance. Drug residues can also cause allergic reactions. Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics 2015 stipulates that use of antibiotics is banned in cosmetics.
  2. According to “Regulations concerning the Hygiene Supervision over Cosmetics”, acne products, sunscreens and hair dyes are special use cosmetics, which can only be manufactured after obtaining an administrative license. Any change/reformulation of ingredients has the potential to impact cosmetic safety and other indexes and requires submission of a new filing/registration application as a new product. The main problem of non-compliant acne, sunscreen and hair dye products found in this sampling inspection is that the actual detected ingredients are inconsistent with the ingredients claimed on the administrative license or labels, and violates "Regulations concerning the Hygiene Supervision over Cosmetics" and "Administrative Measures on Cosmetics Labeling (draft)".

Annex:

Exact Standard of Sunscreen and Hair Dyes Ingredients Mentioned in this News

No.

English/INCI Name

Maximum concentration used in cosmetics

Instruction on Labels

1

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane

5%

/

2

Octocrylene

10% (acid)

/

3

Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine

10%

/

4

Benzophenone-3

10%

Contains benzophenone-3

5

4-methylbenzylidene camphor

4%

/

6

Ethylhexyl salicylate

5%

/

7

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate

10%

/

8

Homosalate

10%

/

9

M-aminophenol

1.0% ( Oxidation hair dyes)

/

10

P-phenylenediamine

2.0% ( Oxidation hair dyes)

Contains phenylenediamins

11

Resorcinol

0.5% ( Only applicable in hair lotion and shampoo)

Contains resorcinol

1.25% ( Oxidation hair dyes)

12

4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene

1.5% ( Oxidation hair dyes)

/

13

1-naphthol

1.0% ( Oxidation hair dyes)

Contains 1-naphthol

14

4-chlororesorcinol

0.5% ( Oxidation hair dyes)

/

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