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A Recap of New Cosmetic Ingredients Notified in China in 2022: Summary of Characteristics

Notification number: followed steady increase in 2022, the NCI notification number is expected to reach a new high in 2023; NCI sources: chemical and biotechnology sources still dominate; Use purpose: skin protectant, moisturizer and antioxidant account for more than half.

Since the official implementation of Cosmetic Supervision and Administration Regulation in 2021, China National Medical Product Administration (NMPA) implemented classified management on cosmetic products and new cosmetic ingredients (NCIs) according to their risk degree. High-risk NCIs require registration with NMPA. While for low-risk NCIs, as long as companies completes the submission of dossiers online, the NCI is considered as “notified” and then can be manufactured or imported, which reduces the threshold for NCI to enter the Chinese market.

In 2022, the number of NCI notification in China was several times that of the past years. Leading companies continue to increase the research and development of NCI. Various NCIs developed by technology and functional NCIs are emerging. The increasing number of NCI notification, on the one hand, intensifies the competition in the cosmetic industry; on the other hand, it can boost the vigorous development of China's cosmetics industry.

Zhejiang Health Products & Cosmetics Industry Associations summarizes the characteristics of NCI notified across China in 2022 and predicts the future trends, as follows. 1

Characteristics of NCI Notified in 2022

1. Notification number: followed steady increase in 2022, the NCI notification number is expected to reach a new high in 2023

In 2022, a total of 42 NCIs was notified (see the table at the end for the complete list). Just three months into 2023, 9 NCIs have been notified. It is foreseeable that in the next period of time, companies will still focus on investing in the research and development of NCI. The number of NCI notification is expected to reach a new high in 2023.

2. NCI sources: chemical and biotechnology sources still dominate

Firstly, among the 42 NCIs notified in 2022, chemical ingredients are still the main ones, with a total of 27. Secondly, the number of biotechnology ingredients is constantly increasing, with a total of 9. For example, the NCI “Saccharomyces / Pearl Ferment Lysate Filtrate” notified in September 2022 is a biotechnology ingredient. Compared with ingredients synthesized by chemical technology, biotechnology ingredients are welcome by more consumers.

In addition to biotechnology, the notification of animal and plant-derived ingredients is increasing. Compared with animal-derived ingredients, plant extracts is always a hot spot in China’s cosmetics industry, because the concept of natural and environmental friendly products is popular among Chinese consumers.

3. Use purpose: skin protectant, moisturizer and antioxidant account for more than half

Among the 42 NCIs notified in 2022, the functions of skin protecting and moisturizing appeared the most, respectively 19 and 18 times. Followed by antioxidants and hair conditioners, appearing 10 and 5 times.

0BE12B87-62D5-4dd6-BC19-0C21C0FD5E23.pngNCIs with anti-aging-related functions are very popular, which is reflected in the emergence of more antioxidants, and the increasing notification number of β-Nicotinamide Mononucleotide (NMN), an ingredient that can improve skin aging phenomenon.

NMN is a very popular ingredient in health food in some countries, claimed to have anti-aging functions and dubbed the "elixir of aging". In the skin care industry, NMN is also expected to be used for anti-aging function. Three companies have completed the NCI notification of NMN four times in total. However, it is worth noting that NMN has not yet been approved for use in health food in China.

REACH24H Consulting Group, the professional team backing up ChemLinked, offers compliance solutions to assist numerous overseas cosmetic companies entering into China market. REACH24H has an extensive experience in NCI notification. Welcome to contact us at contact@chemlinked.com for more advice.

BANNER 810 150  gif.gif42 NCIs Notified in 2022 2

No.

INCI Name

CAS No.

Purpose of Use

Applicable Scope

The Maximum Concentration

Notified Date

Notified Company

1

Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris (Trimethylsiloxy) silylethyl Dimethicone

1466529-58-7

Emulsifying agent

All kinds of cosmetics

2-8%

January 17, 2022

Dow Chemical (Zhang Jiagang) Investment Co., Ltd.

2

Nicotinamide Mononucleotide

1094-61-7

Skin protectant, moisturizer, antioxidant

All types of cosmetics, except lip products, oral hygiene products and spray products

3%

January 24, 2022

Yuyao Lifespan Health Technology Co., Ltd.

3

Polymethylsilsesquioxane/trimethylsiloxysilicate

1402155-47-8

Film Former

All kinds of cosmetics

30%

January 25, 2022

Grant Industries, Inc

4

Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Crosspolymer

1176663-96-9

Thickener

All kinds of cosmetics

l  Rinse-off cosmetics: 5%;

l  Leave-on cosmetics: 2.5%

February 16, 2022

Clariant International Ltd.

5

Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone

1126942-72-0

Hair conditioner

Shampoo, hair conditioner, hair treatment and other hair care products

10%

February 23, 2022

Momentive (Shanghai) Trading Co., Ltd.

6

Chenopodium formosanum Extract

/

Skin protectant

All kinds of cosmetics

0.7%

March 7, 2022

Baiyuet Biotechnology (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.

7

β-Nicotinamide Mononucleotide

1094-61-7

Skin protectant, moisturizer

All kinds of skin-applicable cosmetics

10%

March 29, 2022

Kangying Rubyberries (Zhongshan) Biotechnology Co., Ltd.

8

Zinc Hydrolyzed Hyaluronate

/

Skin protectant, moisturizer

All kinds of cosmetics

1.0% (as Zinc)

April 20, 2022

Bloomage Biotechnology Co., Ltd.

9

β-Nicotinamide Mononucleotide

1094-61-7

Anti-wrinkle agent, skin protectant, antioxidant

All kinds of skin-applicable cosmetics

3%

April 29, 2022

Shenzhen Winkey Pharmaceutical R&D Co., Ltd.

10

Dendrobium Officinale Protocorm

/

Anti-wrinkle agent, moisturizer

All kinds of cosmetics

4.0%

May 18, 2022

Dalian Practical Biotechnology Co., Ltd.

11

Acetylneuraminic Acid

131-48-6

Anti-wrinkle agent, antioxidant, skin   protectant, and moisturizer

Whole-body skin

2.0%

May 31, 2022

Wuhan Zhongke Optics Valley Green   Biotechnology Co., Ltd.

12

Oligopeptide-215

/

Skin protectant

All kinds of cosmetics applicable for any skin

3.0%

June 14, 2022

Shenzhen Winkey Pharmaceutical R&D Co., Ltd.

13

Nicotinamide Mononucleotide

1094-61-7

Skin protectant, moisturizer, and   antioxidant

All kinds of cosmetics

3%

June 29, 2022

Yuyao Lifespan Health Technology Co., Ltd.

14

Amidinobenzyl Benzylsulfonyl D-Seryl   Homophenylalaninamide Acetate

1393815-16-1

Skin protectant and moisturizer

All kinds of cosmetics applicable for any skin (including rinse-off and leave-on types)

0.001%

July 5, 2022

DSM Vitamins (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.

15

Lard

61789-99-9

Skin protectant, emollient,  moisturizer, solvent, and sealing agent

It is suitable for oil-phase matrix cosmetic ingredients, and can be widely used in cream, lotion, cleaning, sunscreen, makeup and other cosmetics.

95%

July 6, 2022

Sichuan Luming Hill Ecological Agriculture Technology Co., Ltd.

16

Hydrolyzed Calcium Hyaluronate

/

Skin protectant and moisturizer

All kinds of cosmetics

2.0%

July 12, 2022

Bloomage Biotechnology Co., Ltd.

17

Chlorotrifluoropropene

102687-65-0

Solvent, cooling agent

  • Leave-on products: skin cosmetics, hair cosmetics

  • Rinse-off products: skin cosmetics, hair cosmetics

90%

July 18, 2022

Honeywell Trading (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.

18

Silicone Ouaternium-20

280569-78-0

Hair conditioner

All kinds of hair cosmetics

3.0%, recommended concentration in cosmetics: 0.5-3.0%

July 20, 2022

Siltech Corporation

19

Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer

1043538-34-6

Skin sensory modifier and thickener

Skin care, makeup and sunscreen cosmetics

0.17-11%

July 28, 2022

Dow Chemical (Zhang Jiagang) Investment Co., Ltd.

20

Hydroxyethyl Imidazolidinone

3699-54-5

Moisturizer

All kinds of cosmetics

1.5%

July 28, 2022

Shiseido Co., Ltd.

21

PIPERIDINEPROPIONIC ACID

26371-07-3

Moisturizer

All kinds of cosmetics

3.0%

July 28, 2022

Shiseido Co., Ltd.

22

TMP Lauryl Dimethicone

1961223-88-0

Emulsion stabilizer

All kinds of cosmetics

5.0%, recommended concentration in cosmetics: 1.0-5.0%, 3.0-5.0% is better

August 2, 2022

Siltech Corporation

23

Cyclohexylglycerin

10305-41-6

Moisturizer

All kinds of skin care, hair care and makeup products

5%

August 18, 2022

Adeka Corporation

24

Polyurethane-34

67815-81-0

Film former

Leave-on cosmetics

32%

August 19, 2022

Covestro Deutschland AG

25

Polyurethane-48

1346107-02-5

Film former

Leave-on cosmetics

30%

August 19, 2022

Covestro Deutschland AG

26

Acetylneuraminic Acid

131-48-6

Anti-wrinkle agent, skin protectant, moisturizer, antioxidant

It is suitable for whole body skin care

2.0%

August 19, 2022

Bloomage Biotechnology Co., Ltd.

27

Bakuchiol

10309-37-2

Skin protectant, skin sensory modifier,   moisturizer and antioxidant

All kinds of facial cosmetics

2%

August 26, 2022

Sytheon Corporation

28

Polylactic Acid

9051-89-2

Film former, exfoliator, emulsion stabilizer, emulsifier

All kinds of cosmetics

10%

September 5, 2022

LX Hausys, Ltd.

29

Saccharomyces / Pearl Ferment Lysate Filtrate

/

Skin protectant, moisturizer and   antioxidant

All kinds of cosmetics

1) For facial leave-on cosmetics

  • Essence: 8%

  • Cream: 7%

  • Lotion: 4%

  • Sunblock: 22%

  • Foundation (liquid): 25%

  • Foundation (powder): 41%

  • Other products: 1.9%

 

2) For body leave-on cosmetics

  • Body cream and lotion: 0.7%

  • Other products: 0.3%

 

3) Hand cream: 1.7%

 

4) Eye leave-on cosmetics: 9%

 

5) Lip leave-on cosmetics: 100%

 

6) Facial rinse-off cosmetics: 100%

September 13, 2022

Zhejiang Osm Group Deqing Bio-tech Co., Ltd.

30

Acetobacter / Lactobacillus / Saccharomyces / Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract / Sucrose Fermet Filtrate

/

Skin protectant

All kinds of skin cosmetics

5%

September 13, 2022

Sethic (Guangzhou) Technology R&D Co., Ltd.

31

Silicone Quaternium-26

1551351-87-1

Hair conditioner

Shampoo, hair conditioner, hair mask, hair oil and other hair care products

10%

September 15, 2022

Momentive (Shanghai) Trading Co., Ltd.

32

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-18

1206591-87-8

Thickener

All kinds of cosmetics

2%

September 15, 2022

Nissan Chemical Corporation

33

Bis-diisopropanolamine-PG-Propyl Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PEG-14 Copolymer

1253692-80-6

Hair conditioner

Shampoo, hair conditioner, hair dyeing products, hair mask products

There is no safety-based usage limit requirements.

However, according to the formula test results and application, notifier’s recommended concentration is 0.1-6% by weight in the formula of shampoo, hair conditioner, hair dyeing products, and hair mask products.

September 20, 2022

Dow Chemical (Zhang Jiagang) Investment Co., Ltd.

34

Lauroyl/Myristoyl Methyl Glucamide

287735-50-6

Softener, foaming agent, skin sensory   modifier, hair conditioner, cleanser

Rinse-off cosmetics

7%

October 9, 2022

Clariant International Ltd.

35

Sodium Hydrolyzed Potato Starch Dodecenylsuccinate

1218992-20-1

Foaming agent

Rinse-off cosmetics

10%

October 13, 2022

Nouryon Surface Chemistry LLC

36

Hibiscus taiwanensis root/stem extract

/

Skin protectant, antioxidant

Rinse-off and leave-on cosmetics, the maximum limit for both is 2%

2%

October 17, 2022

Juwenlee (Fujian) Cosmetics Co., Ltd.

37

Perfluorobutylethyl Stearyl Dimethicone

915223-67-5

Hair styling agent, moisturizer,   dispersant

All kinds of cosmetics

2%

October 28, 2022

Elkem Silicones (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.

38

Cordyceps cicada mycelium extract

/

Skin protectant, moisturizer, antioxidant

All kinds of cosmetics applicable for any skin

Recommended concentration: 1-10%, theoretical experience value

November 4, 2022

Shanghai Grape King Co., Ltd.

39

Euphausia Superba Oil

/

Moisturizer

All kinds of cosmetics

18.5%

November 4, 2022

Zhongguan Biotechnology (Hunchun) Co., Ltd.

40

Donkey Milk Powder

/

Astringent

All kinds of cosmetics applicable for any skin

46%

December 8, 2022

Dong-E-E-Jiao Co., Ltd.

41

Swiftlet Nest Peptide

/

Skin protectant, antioxidant

All kinds of cosmetics applicable for any skin

0.3%

December 8, 2022

Xiamen Yanzhiwu Silk Nong Food Co., Ltd.

42

Nicotinoyl Tetrapeptide-30

/

Skin protectant

All kinds of cosmetics applicable for any skin

0.1%

December 29, 2022

Shenzhen Winkey Pharmaceutical R&D Co., Ltd.

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