Since the official implementation of Cosmetic Supervision and Administration Regulation in 2021, China National Medical Product Administration (NMPA) implemented classified management on cosmetic products and new cosmetic ingredients (NCIs) according to their risk degree. High-risk NCIs require registration with NMPA. While for low-risk NCIs, as long as companies completes the submission of dossiers online, the NCI is considered as “notified” and then can be manufactured or imported, which reduces the threshold for NCI to enter the Chinese market.
In 2022, the number of NCI notification in China was several times that of the past years. Leading companies continue to increase the research and development of NCI. Various NCIs developed by technology and functional NCIs are emerging. The increasing number of NCI notification, on the one hand, intensifies the competition in the cosmetic industry; on the other hand, it can boost the vigorous development of China's cosmetics industry.
Zhejiang Health Products & Cosmetics Industry Associations summarizes the characteristics of NCI notified across China in 2022 and predicts the future trends, as follows. 1
Characteristics of NCI Notified in 2022
1. Notification number: followed steady increase in 2022, the NCI notification number is expected to reach a new high in 2023
In 2022, a total of 42 NCIs was notified (see the table at the end for the complete list). Just three months into 2023, 9 NCIs have been notified. It is foreseeable that in the next period of time, companies will still focus on investing in the research and development of NCI. The number of NCI notification is expected to reach a new high in 2023.
2. NCI sources: chemical and biotechnology sources still dominate
Firstly, among the 42 NCIs notified in 2022, chemical ingredients are still the main ones, with a total of 27. Secondly, the number of biotechnology ingredients is constantly increasing, with a total of 9. For example, the NCI “Saccharomyces / Pearl Ferment Lysate Filtrate” notified in September 2022 is a biotechnology ingredient. Compared with ingredients synthesized by chemical technology, biotechnology ingredients are welcome by more consumers.
In addition to biotechnology, the notification of animal and plant-derived ingredients is increasing. Compared with animal-derived ingredients, plant extracts is always a hot spot in China’s cosmetics industry, because the concept of natural and environmental friendly products is popular among Chinese consumers.
3. Use purpose: skin protectant, moisturizer and antioxidant account for more than half
Among the 42 NCIs notified in 2022, the functions of skin protecting and moisturizing appeared the most, respectively 19 and 18 times. Followed by antioxidants and hair conditioners, appearing 10 and 5 times.
NCIs with anti-aging-related functions are very popular, which is reflected in the emergence of more antioxidants, and the increasing notification number of β-Nicotinamide Mononucleotide (NMN), an ingredient that can improve skin aging phenomenon.
NMN is a very popular ingredient in health food in some countries, claimed to have anti-aging functions and dubbed the "elixir of aging". In the skin care industry, NMN is also expected to be used for anti-aging function. Three companies have completed the NCI notification of NMN four times in total. However, it is worth noting that NMN has not yet been approved for use in health food in China.
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42 NCIs Notified in 2022 2
No. | INCI Name | CAS No. | Purpose of Use | Applicable Scope | The Maximum Concentration | Notified Date | Notified Company |
1 | Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris (Trimethylsiloxy) silylethyl Dimethicone | 1466529-58-7 | Emulsifying agent | All kinds of cosmetics | 2-8% | January 17, 2022 | Dow Chemical (Zhang Jiagang) Investment Co., Ltd. |
2 | Nicotinamide Mononucleotide | 1094-61-7 | Skin protectant, moisturizer, antioxidant | All types of cosmetics, except lip products, oral hygiene products and spray products | ≤3% | January 24, 2022 | Yuyao Lifespan Health Technology Co., Ltd. |
3 | Polymethylsilsesquioxane/trimethylsiloxysilicate | 1402155-47-8 | Film Former | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤30% | January 25, 2022 | Grant Industries, Inc |
4 | Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Crosspolymer | 1176663-96-9 | Thickener | All kinds of cosmetics | l Rinse-off cosmetics: 5%; l Leave-on cosmetics: 2.5% | February 16, 2022 | Clariant International Ltd. |
5 | Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone | 1126942-72-0 | Hair conditioner | Shampoo, hair conditioner, hair treatment and other hair care products | 10% | February 23, 2022 | Momentive (Shanghai) Trading Co., Ltd. |
6 | Chenopodium formosanum Extract | / | Skin protectant | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤0.7% | March 7, 2022 | Baiyuet Biotechnology (Shanghai) Co., Ltd. |
7 | β-Nicotinamide Mononucleotide | 1094-61-7 | Skin protectant, moisturizer | All kinds of skin-applicable cosmetics | ≤10% | March 29, 2022 | Kangying Rubyberries (Zhongshan) Biotechnology Co., Ltd. |
8 | Zinc Hydrolyzed Hyaluronate | / | Skin protectant, moisturizer | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤1.0% (as Zinc) | April 20, 2022 | Bloomage Biotechnology Co., Ltd. |
9 | β-Nicotinamide Mononucleotide | 1094-61-7 | Anti-wrinkle agent, skin protectant, antioxidant | All kinds of skin-applicable cosmetics | ＜3% | April 29, 2022 | Shenzhen Winkey Pharmaceutical R&D Co., Ltd. |
10 | Dendrobium Officinale Protocorm | / | Anti-wrinkle agent, moisturizer | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤4.0% | May 18, 2022 | Dalian Practical Biotechnology Co., Ltd. |
11 | Acetylneuraminic Acid | 131-48-6 | Anti-wrinkle agent, antioxidant, skin protectant, and moisturizer | Whole-body skin | ≤2.0% | May 31, 2022 | Wuhan Zhongke Optics Valley Green Biotechnology Co., Ltd. |
12 | Oligopeptide-215 | / | Skin protectant | All kinds of cosmetics applicable for any skin | ≤3.0% | June 14, 2022 | Shenzhen Winkey Pharmaceutical R&D Co., Ltd. |
13 | Nicotinamide Mononucleotide | 1094-61-7 | Skin protectant, moisturizer, and antioxidant | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤3% | June 29, 2022 | Yuyao Lifespan Health Technology Co., Ltd. |
14 | Amidinobenzyl Benzylsulfonyl D-Seryl Homophenylalaninamide Acetate | 1393815-16-1 | Skin protectant and moisturizer | All kinds of cosmetics applicable for any skin (including rinse-off and leave-on types) | 0.001% | July 5, 2022 | DSM Vitamins (Shanghai) Co., Ltd. |
15 | Lard | 61789-99-9 | Skin protectant, emollient, moisturizer, solvent, and sealing agent | It is suitable for oil-phase matrix cosmetic ingredients, and can be widely used in cream, lotion, cleaning, sunscreen, makeup and other cosmetics. | ≤95% | July 6, 2022 | Sichuan Luming Hill Ecological Agriculture Technology Co., Ltd. |
16 | Hydrolyzed Calcium Hyaluronate | / | Skin protectant and moisturizer | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤2.0% | July 12, 2022 | Bloomage Biotechnology Co., Ltd. |
17 | Chlorotrifluoropropene | 102687-65-0 | Solvent, cooling agent |
| ≤90% | July 18, 2022 | Honeywell Trading (Shanghai) Co., Ltd. |
18 | Silicone Ouaternium-20 | 280569-78-0 | Hair conditioner | All kinds of hair cosmetics | ≤3.0%, recommended concentration in cosmetics: 0.5-3.0% | July 20, 2022 | Siltech Corporation |
19 | Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer | 1043538-34-6 | Skin sensory modifier and thickener | Skin care, makeup and sunscreen cosmetics | 0.17-11% | July 28, 2022 | Dow Chemical (Zhang Jiagang) Investment Co., Ltd. |
20 | Hydroxyethyl Imidazolidinone | 3699-54-5 | Moisturizer | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤1.5% | July 28, 2022 | Shiseido Co., Ltd. |
21 | PIPERIDINEPROPIONIC ACID | 26371-07-3 | Moisturizer | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤3.0% | July 28, 2022 | Shiseido Co., Ltd. |
22 | TMP Lauryl Dimethicone | 1961223-88-0 | Emulsion stabilizer | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤5.0%, recommended concentration in cosmetics: 1.0-5.0%, 3.0-5.0% is better | August 2, 2022 | Siltech Corporation |
23 | Cyclohexylglycerin | 10305-41-6 | Moisturizer | All kinds of skin care, hair care and makeup products | 5% | August 18, 2022 | Adeka Corporation |
24 | Polyurethane-34 | 67815-81-0 | Film former | Leave-on cosmetics | 32% | August 19, 2022 | Covestro Deutschland AG |
25 | Polyurethane-48 | 1346107-02-5 | Film former | Leave-on cosmetics | 30% | August 19, 2022 | Covestro Deutschland AG |
26 | Acetylneuraminic Acid | 131-48-6 | Anti-wrinkle agent, skin protectant, moisturizer, antioxidant | It is suitable for whole body skin care | ≤2.0% | August 19, 2022 | Bloomage Biotechnology Co., Ltd. |
27 | Bakuchiol | 10309-37-2 | Skin protectant, skin sensory modifier, moisturizer and antioxidant | All kinds of facial cosmetics | 2% | August 26, 2022 | Sytheon Corporation |
28 | Polylactic Acid | 9051-89-2 | Film former, exfoliator, emulsion stabilizer, emulsifier | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤10% | September 5, 2022 | LX Hausys, Ltd. |
29 | Saccharomyces / Pearl Ferment Lysate Filtrate | / | Skin protectant, moisturizer and antioxidant | All kinds of cosmetics | 1) For facial leave-on cosmetics
2) For body leave-on cosmetics
3) Hand cream: ≤1.7%
4) Eye leave-on cosmetics: ≤9%
5) Lip leave-on cosmetics: ≤100%
6) Facial rinse-off cosmetics: ≤100% | September 13, 2022 | Zhejiang Osm Group Deqing Bio-tech Co., Ltd. |
30 | Acetobacter / Lactobacillus / Saccharomyces / Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract / Sucrose Fermet Filtrate | / | Skin protectant | All kinds of skin cosmetics | 5% | September 13, 2022 | Sethic (Guangzhou) Technology R&D Co., Ltd. |
31 | Silicone Quaternium-26 | 1551351-87-1 | Hair conditioner | Shampoo, hair conditioner, hair mask, hair oil and other hair care products | 10% | September 15, 2022 | Momentive (Shanghai) Trading Co., Ltd. |
32 | Palmitoyl Dipeptide-18 | 1206591-87-8 | Thickener | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤2% | September 15, 2022 | Nissan Chemical Corporation |
33 | Bis-diisopropanolamine-PG-Propyl Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PEG-14 Copolymer | 1253692-80-6 | Hair conditioner | Shampoo, hair conditioner, hair dyeing products, hair mask products | There is no safety-based usage limit requirements. However, according to the formula test results and application, notifier’s recommended concentration is 0.1-6% by weight in the formula of shampoo, hair conditioner, hair dyeing products, and hair mask products. | September 20, 2022 | Dow Chemical (Zhang Jiagang) Investment Co., Ltd. |
34 | Lauroyl/Myristoyl Methyl Glucamide | 287735-50-6 | Softener, foaming agent, skin sensory modifier, hair conditioner, cleanser | Rinse-off cosmetics | 7% | October 9, 2022 | Clariant International Ltd. |
35 | Sodium Hydrolyzed Potato Starch Dodecenylsuccinate | 1218992-20-1 | Foaming agent | Rinse-off cosmetics | 10% | October 13, 2022 | Nouryon Surface Chemistry LLC |
36 | Hibiscus taiwanensis root/stem extract | / | Skin protectant, antioxidant | Rinse-off and leave-on cosmetics, the maximum limit for both is 2% | ≤2% | October 17, 2022 | Juwenlee (Fujian) Cosmetics Co., Ltd. |
37 | Perfluorobutylethyl Stearyl Dimethicone | 915223-67-5 | Hair styling agent, moisturizer, dispersant | All kinds of cosmetics | 2% | October 28, 2022 | Elkem Silicones (Shanghai) Co., Ltd. |
38 | Cordyceps cicada mycelium extract | / | Skin protectant, moisturizer, antioxidant | All kinds of cosmetics applicable for any skin | Recommended concentration: 1-10%, theoretical experience value | November 4, 2022 | Shanghai Grape King Co., Ltd. |
39 | Euphausia Superba Oil | / | Moisturizer | All kinds of cosmetics | 18.5% | November 4, 2022 | Zhongguan Biotechnology (Hunchun) Co., Ltd. |
40 | Donkey Milk Powder | / | Astringent | All kinds of cosmetics applicable for any skin | 46% | December 8, 2022 | Dong-E-E-Jiao Co., Ltd. |
41 | Swiftlet Nest Peptide | / | Skin protectant, antioxidant | All kinds of cosmetics applicable for any skin | ≤0.3% | December 8, 2022 | Xiamen Yanzhiwu Silk Nong Food Co., Ltd. |
42 | Nicotinoyl Tetrapeptide-30 | / | Skin protectant | All kinds of cosmetics applicable for any skin | ≤0.1% | December 29, 2022 | Shenzhen Winkey Pharmaceutical R&D Co., Ltd. |
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