[Updated] A Recap of New Cosmetic Ingredients Notified in China in 2023

Editor's note: This article was originally published on July 14, 2023, and was updated on January 19, 2024, as per the latest developments.

After experiencing significant growth in 2022, the number of NCI notifications in China continued to increase in 2023. According to data from NMPA's query platform, a total of 69 NCIs were notified in 2023. ¹ Among them, β-nicotinamide mononucleotide was notified four times, and bakuchiol was notified three times.

In the past three years (2021-2023), the cumulative number of NCIs notified in China has reached 117. There were 6 notifications in 2021, 42 notifications in 2022, and 69 notifications in 2023. The 2023 figure represents an increase of 21 notifications compared to the combined total of 2021 and 2022. This trend underscores the growing importance of ingredient innovation for beauty enterprises striving to maintain a competitive edge.

Characteristics of NCIs Notified in 2023

1. NCIs sources: chemical sources remain dominant; biotech ingredients and plant extracts are on the rise

In 2023, most of the notified NCIs were derived from chemical sources, while some were from biotechnology, plants, and animals.

Due to the low safety risk associated with the ingredient structure of chemical ingredients (polymers), only skin and eye irritation/corrosion tests and skin phototoxicity tests are required. These alternative test methods are already incorporated into the Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics (STSC). As many foreign countries/regions, including the EU, the US, and Japan, currently prohibit animal testing in cosmetics, notifiers from these countries/regions prefer to notify chemical ingredients (polymers).

While chemical ingredients dominate the industry, there is a growing interest in biotech ingredients and plant-derived ingredients among enterprises.

Biological fermentation technology is currently the mainstream and a hot topic for extracting cosmetic ingredients. Over the past three years, there has been a significant increase in notifications for biotech ingredients. The number of notifications went from two in 2021 to nine in 2022, and further increased to twelve in 2023. Biotech ingredients are typically derived from natural sources and then synthesized into chemical substances. Their use not only helps reduce reliance on limited resources but also promotes sustainable development, aligning with consumers' demand for natural health.

Furthermore, with increasing consumer demand for safe, clean, and sustainable beauty products, there is greater recognition of products that contain plant-derived ingredients. This is evident from the rise in notifications for plant-derived NCIs.

According to Lei Zhang, Chief Engineer of Tianjin Shangmei, “Consumers are becoming more conscious of product safety and prefer ingredients that are both effective and safe. As a result, many enterprises are focusing on developing ingredients using plant extraction technology and fermentation technology." ²

2. Use purpose: skin protectant, moisturizer and antioxidant account for more than half

Most notified NCIs are primarily used as skin protectants, followed by those for moisturizing and anti-oxidation purposes.

“Skin protectant is a relatively general type of ingredient, which can include functions such as moisturizing, repairing, nourishing, firming, etc. The reason why functional ingredients are notified as skin protectants is to allow for more possibilities in their development. The current technology may limit the research of NCIs. To avoid the application for an update of the NCI’s technical requirements in case new functions are discovered in subsequent research, it's more convenient to notify the ingredient as a skin protectant.” Zhang explained. ²

3. Notifiers: Chinese domestic enterprises account for 72.5%

According to NMPA's data query platform, overseas enterprises are the main notifiers of the 42 NCIs notified in 2022. However, in 2023, 50 out of the 69 NCIs notified are from Chinese domestic enterprises, accounting for 72.5%. Among these, Shenzhen Winkey Pharmaceutical R&D Co., Ltd. (hereinafter referred to as "Winkey") is the most active applicant, with 4 NCIs notified in 2023.

According to the marketing department head of Winkey, the increase in Chinese domestic notifiers this year can be attributed to their experience gained in the past. Previously, these enterprises were still in a groping stage, but they have since learned from their experiences and are now considering how to utilize R&D resources and platforms to better prepare for NCI notifications and avoid detours. ³

New regulations and market demands have motivated Chinese enterprises to challenge the monopoly of overseas enterprises in the cosmetic ingredients field. Their high enthusiasm to notify NCI indicates that the NCI market is very thriving.

4. Future trends: the total number of NCI notifications is expected to grow, with a focus on ingredients that have already been allowed for use in cosmetics abroad

1) A Significant Increase in NCI Notifications

Lei Zhang predicts a significant increase in NCI notifications in the long term. She said, "market competition has intensified, and many enterprises are actively pursuing this track." ²

2) Focus on Ingredients Allowed for Use in Cosmetics Abroad

Shuquan Lao, the China Regional Director of Symrise's Cosmetic Ingredients Department, believes that future NCI notifications may include ingredients that have been included in the international ingredient catalogue but have not yet been listed in Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (IECIC). ³ Notably, the majority of NCIs notified in 2023 have already been allowed for use in cosmetics abroad and are included in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook and have their own INCI name.

The International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (16th Edition) currently includes 22,620 cosmetic ingredients, while IECIC only includes 8,972. This significant difference in the number of ingredients listed in Chinese and international catalogues means that there is a huge space for the great number of ingredients that have been used in cosmetics abroad to be introduced into China for NCI notification.

3) Focus on Ingredients Sourced from Diverse Fields

Companies are currently placing emphasis on ingredients that find applications across multiple industries. ⁴ Some of the notified NCIs are sourced from diverse fields such as medicine, food, and health food. Examples of such ingredients include Acetylneuraminic Acid, Tissue Culture of Saussurea Involucrata, and Euphausia Superba Oil. Of particular interest is the increasing number of notifications for β-Nicotinamide Mononucleotide (NMN), which has garnered the attention of seven companies that have completed a total of eight notifications for NMN.

NMN holds significant popularity as a health food ingredient in certain countries, where it is renowned for its claimed anti-aging function and has earned the moniker of the “elixir of aging.” The skincare industry also anticipates the use of NMN for its anti-aging function.

However, it is important to note that NMN has yet to receive approval for use in drugs, health foods, and foods in China. Its notification as a new cosmetic ingredient represents just the initial step towards market availability. The notified NCIs will then undergo a three-year monitoring period, during which additional research data and clinical applications will be accumulated to establish its safety.

With extensive experience in NCI notification, ChemLinked’s parent company REACH24H Consulting Group offers compliance solutions to assist overseas cosmetic enterprises entering into China market. Welcome to contact us at contact@chemlinked.com for more advice.

69 NCIs Notified in 2023