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China National Medical Products Administration (NMPA) publicized the information of two new cosmetic ingredients (NCIs) notified in May 2022. 1
Notification Number | INCI / English Name | CAS No. | Use Purpose | Applicable Scope | The Maximum Concentration | Notified Date | Notified Company |
国妆原备字20220010 | Dendrobillm Officinale Protocorm | / | Anti-wrinkle agent, moisturizer | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤4.0% | May 18, 2022 | Dalian Practical Biotechnology Co., Ltd. |
国妆原备字20220011 | Acetylneuraminic Acid | 131-48-6 | Anti-wrinkle agent, antioxidant, skin protectant, and moisturizer | Whole-body skin | ≤2.0% | May 31, 2022 | Wuhan Zhongke Optics Valley Green Biotechnology Co., Ltd. |
Among them, Acetylneuraminic Acid was firstly notified on June 25, 2021, and notified for the second time on May 31, 2022 by the same notifier. There is no big difference in this ingredient’s technical requirements, but its use purposes is expanded from the previous moisturizer to the anti-wrinkle agent, antioxidant, skin protectant, and moisturizer. Acetylneuraminic Acid is the first notified NCI, as well as the first NCI expanding the use purposes since the implementation of the new notification system.
Source: NMPA’s Cosmetic Registration and Notification Information Publicity System
Acetylneuraminic Acid is a kind of natural carbohydrate compounds that exists in biological systems, widely found in vertebrates, mammals and various plant tissues, especially in cubilose and breast milk. Acetylneuraminic Acid is used in most cubilose skin care products as the active ingredient. The expansion of its use purposes will make it have a wider application range, and promote the innovation of cosmetics using it as the active ingredient. 2
Information of All Notified New Cosmetic Ingredients
Since the implementation of the notification system for low-risk NCIs on May 1, 2021, seventeen NCIs have been notified. Compared with the notification speed of NCIs before the implementation of the notification system, now the speed has been greatly improved. Industry insiders said that the increased speed will help cosmetic companies to innovate their products, improve competitiveness and maintain market differentiation.
Noteworthy Information of All Notified New Cosmetic Ingredients | |||||||
Notification Number | INCI / English Name | CAS No. | Use Purpose | Applicable Scope | The Maximum Concentration | Notified Date | Notified Company |
国妆原备字20210001 | Acetylneuraminic Acid | 131-48-6 | Moisturizer | Whole-body skin | ≤2% | June 25, 2021 | Wuhan Zhongke Optics Valley Green Biotechnology Co., Ltd. |
国妆原备字20210002 | Lauroyl Alanine | 52558-74-4 | Cleansing agent | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤20% | June 25, 2021 | Suzhou Weimei Biotechnology Co., Ltd. |
国妆原备字20210003 | β-Alanyl Hydroxyprolyldiaminobutyroyl Benzylamide | / | Skin protectant | 1. Rinse-off products: cleansing products and massage products 2. Leave-on products: toner, lotion, mask, etc. 3. Make-up: foundation | 0.00001%-1.0% | August 6, 2021 | Shenzhen Winkey Pharmaceutical R&D Co., Ltd. |
国妆原备字20210004 | Tissue Culture of Saussurea Involucrata | / | Antioxidants | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤4% | August 13, 2021 | Dalian Practical Biotechnology Co., Ltd. |
国妆原备字20210005 | Tetrafluoropropene | 29118-24-9 | Propellant | 1. Leave-on products: skin cosmetics, hair care cosmetics 2. Rinse-off products: skin cosmetics, hair care cosmetics
| ≤90% | December 2, 2021 | Honeywell International Inc. |
国妆原备字20210006 | Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate | 928663-45-0 | Cleansing agent | Shampoo, bath products, facial cleansing products, and other cleansing cosmetics (Not to be used in eye products) | ≤11% | December 8, 2021 | Innospec (Beijing) Inc. |
国妆原备字20220001 | Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris (Trimethylsiloxy) silylethyl Dimethicone | 1466529-58-7 | Emulsifying agent | All kinds of cosmetics | 2%-8% | January 17, 2022 | Dow Chemical (Zhang Jiagang) Investment Co., Ltd. |
国妆原备字20220002 | Nicotinamide Mononucleotide | 1094-61-7 | Skin protectant, moisturizer, antioxidant | All types of cosmetics, except lip products, oral hygiene products, and spray products | ≤3% | January 24, 2022 | Yuyao Lifespan Health Technology Co., Ltd. |
国妆原备字20220003 | Polymethylsilsesquioxane / trimethylsiloxysilicate | 1402155-47-8 | Film Former | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤30% | January 25, 2022 | Grant Industries, Inc |
国妆原备字20220004 | Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Crosspolymer | 1176663-96-9 | Thickener | All kinds of cosmetics | 1. Rinse-off cosmetics: 5%; 2. Leave-on cosmetics: 2.5% | February 16, 2022 | Clariant International Ltd. |
国妆原备字20220005 | Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone | 1126942-72-0 | Hair conditioner | Shampoo, hair conditioner, hair treatment, and other hair care products | 10% | February 23, 2022 | Momentive (Shanghai) Trading Co., Ltd. |
国妆原备字20220006 | Chenopodium formosanum Extract | / | Skin protectant | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤0.7% | March 7, 2022 | Baiyuet Biotechnology (Shanghai) Co., Ltd. |
国妆原备字20220007 | β-Nicotinamide Mononucleotide | 1094-61-7 | Skin protectant, moisturizer | All kinds of skin-applicable cosmetics | ≤10% | March 29, 2022 | Kangying Rubyberries (Zhongshan) Biotechnology Co., Ltd. |
国妆原备字20220008 | Zinc Hydrolyzed Hyaluronate | / | Skin protectant, moisturizer | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤1.0% (as Zinc) | April 20, 2022 | Bloomage Biotechnology Co., Ltd. |
国妆原备字20220009 | β-Nicotinamide Mononucleotide | 1094-61-7 | Anti-wrinkle agent, skin protectant, antioxidant | All kinds of skin-applicable cosmetics | ＜3% | April 29, 2022 | Shenzhen Winkey Pharmaceutical R&D Co., Ltd. |
国妆原备字20220010 | Dendrobium Officinale Protocorm | / | Anti-wrinkle agent, moisturizer | All kinds of cosmetics | ≤4.0% | May 18, 2022 | Dalian Practical Biotechnology Co., Ltd. |
国妆原备字20220011 | Acetylneuraminic Acid | 131-48-6 | Anti-wrinkle agent, antioxidant, skin protectant, and moisturizer | Whole-body skin | ≤2.0% | May 31, 2022 | Wuhan Zhongke Optics Valley Green Biotechnology Co., Ltd. |
Notes: If the above ingredients have no safety problems during the 3-year safety monitoring period, NMPA will include them in Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China. | |||||||
It can be seen from the above table that three NCIs with anti-wrinkle efficacy have been notified consecutively from April to May 2022, showing that "anti-wrinkle" efficacy are attracting much attention recently.
The Frequency of Occurrence of Notified NCIs’ Functions | |
Function | Frequency of Occurrence |
Skin protection | Seven times |
Moisturizing | Six times |
Antioxidation | Four times |
Anti-wrinkle | Three times |
Cleansing | Two times |
Propellant | One time |
Thickening | One time |
Hair conditioning | One time |
Emulsification | One time |
Film Formation | One time |
In addition, among the seventeen notified NCIs, eleven are from Chinese companies and six are from overseas companies. Overseas NCIs have certain advantages when applying for registration and notification. Provisions for Management of New Cosmetic Ingredient Registration and Notification Dossiers clearly stipulates that for NCI with safety use history of more than three years in cosmetics marketed overseas, some toxicological tests such as teratogenicity test and long-term human trial safety test can be exempted, which can save money and time costs. It is foreseeable that in the future, there will be more registered/notified cosmetic ingredients from abroad. ChemLinked can assist companies in NCI registration and notification. If you have any further cosmetic compliance consultation, please feel free to contact us at [email protected].
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